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Wow!!!
I spent part of today comparing prices of a new vehicle (identical specifications) I am considering:
List Price:
On-line $38790;
Vendor 1 $35263; and
Vendor 2 $35235.
Discount:
Vendor 1 $3500; and
Vendor 2 $4977.
Final total:
Vendor 1 $41968; and
Vendor 2 $39427.
I guess I might go for the $2541 saving eh?
soth
what type of car ?
I can get some details on Fords bottom prices if that's what you are looking at.
Thanks VERY MUCH Gumby:2tsup: - I'm sticking with Toyota. Have had absolutely no trouble with two vehicles:Quote:
Originally Posted by Gumby
One (Highace) I travelled almost 60000 in one year, and traded that to a dual cab Hilux which I've kept siince Feb 1985, and now just turned over 118000Km.
No probs. My son is in new cars with a big Ford dealer. It seems to me that about 4-5 grand off list is about the bottom price. Shouldn't be much different with Toyota I would think.Quote:
Originally Posted by masoth
Sorry, I must be missing something (its late on Friday night afterall!!) but why is the final total for the vendors 1 & 2 HIGHER than the list price minus the discount....Quote:
Originally Posted by masoth
I've just done a deal on a car (almost) list price; $32,990 plus dealer costs, rego and insurance.
Dealer one- $32,995 on the road (and I'm making $60 on the deal he says) I sob in his beer, but thank him anyway.
Dealer two- $32,044 and a DVD player thrown in (if I sign today).
Dealer one - ok I'll match that!
Tomorrow is another day. Dealer one has been very helpful and I don't care about screwing the last few dollars out of the deal, but I don't get it either.
Cheers,
P
I should have explained - I did not include the options, delivery charge, GST, etc. Sorry fishy.Quote:
Originally Posted by abitfishy
The difference in delivery cost is surprising: Vendor 1 $995 and Vendor 2 is $525.
The point I'm trying to make is how important 'shopping around' can be. I'm going back to Vendor 1 on Monday armed with the quote from Vendor 2.:U
soth
Ah, thats alright, I thought there must of been something I missed. I hadn't even had a drink.
Good luck with the Toyota, but it will take a lot to change me from Ford. :)
If you work for a large corporation there may be an easier way with a better price.
Many corporations and governments have negotiated special pricing for their employees. You should ask at your HR department.
When I bought my truck, the price was about $300 less than dealer invoice. All I had to do was give the dealer my PIN and the price was calculated right there. And yes, here the dealer invoice can be verified from several sources like Kelly Blue Book and Edmunds.
BTW - Here in the US, there is a system called "Hold Backs". This is a number, usually 3% of the dealer invoice, that is held back by the manufacturer. This hold back is used towards the next vehicle. For example, the list or sticker price is $30,000 with a dealer invoice of $25,000. The dealer sells that vehicle and orders a replacement as inventory for sale. Assuming the same numbers, the actual cost to the dealer is $24,250 ($25,000 invoice less previous hold back $750) for the replacement vehicle. So, here, when a dealer says that they're "Only making $50" it is true based on the invoice number but the hold back is adding about 3% in profit. Dealers, like consumers, never buy at the published price.
Hi
Try discountnewcars.com.au. Major dealerships have a deal with them where there is a pre arranged discount. This has saved me thousands on my last purchase.
My uncle has recently retired from the sales game and he always told me the best thing to do is as follows;
Do up a letter identifying the exact make and model of car that you wish to buy, all accessories colour etc.
Phone up each of the dealers asking to speak with the sales manager. Get his name and fax number and tell him to expect a fax.
Make a list and fax off the request to each of them. In the letter state that you will simply be taking the lowest offer from a number of dealers that you are faxing the letter to and that you will not be entering into any debate over the price and that they only get one chance at it.
The other is never trade. A trade just gets in the way of the cheapest price and goes against you.
If you have a vehicle try selling it first at a reasonable price and if you get no takers then get the price for a trade in from redbook.com.au for your vehicle and advertise it at that price which is in effect wholesaling it. Most private sellers overprice thier cars.
We did the fax thing with my fathers Ford Fairmont a few years ago and he got a really good deal.
good luck
dazzler
i hate car salesman there a pack of arseholes and i dont recomend cardiff toyota to get a car from:ranting2:
we paid $23,000 for a new corrolla conquest with promise of a 6 year warranty we only ended up with a 3 year warranty due to a missunderstanding and you can never get a straight answer from them
i will stick to buying second hand cars privately next time its less hassle dealing with fellow human beings
Dazzler said, and I thank you: "Try discountnewcars.com.au. Major dealerships have a deal with them where there is a pre arranged discount. This has saved me thousands on my last purchase.", so I had a look.
Certainly an interesting set-up - the list price was about $5000 less than the other dealers BUT everything else was greater. A couple, to indicate:
* Aircon $1930 against 1695 and 1625;
* Delivery $1295 against 995 and 525; and
* Stamp duty $1264 against $1134 and $1040.
That alone is $1289 more than the cheapest, and I did not price the options I want because they weren't readily available.
soth
Best deal I've had on a new car was to buy it from a dealer in the bush. Not only was the bottom line about $2k less than the city dealers, it was all done on a handshake, no bank cheque, "your personal cheque will be OK"
Cheers
Graeme
Doh!Quote:
Originally Posted by masoth
And I thought I was clever! :C
At last I'm ready to buy my new Toyota Hilux and to sell my old Toyota Hilux. Trade-in would get me $1500, and the private sale is getting me $4000.
QUESTIONS: In Victoria is a Road Worthy Certificate (RWC) required:
1. to be supplied by the vendor; (if not)
2. obtained by the purchaser; and
3. what is the cost?
I'm offering a full mechanical service and detailing BEFORE handover, so I'm not inclined to provide a RWC too.
Thoughts please.
soth