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I have purchased a bottle of ubueat white shellac.I heard Neil say on that forum video that all you need is white shellac and wax.
Ok now how do you use it.
Can you brush it on,how long between coats,do you sand between coats,and how long should it sit before the wax is applied.
I would appreciate some advice ,thank you.
Regards
Terry
Hi Terry,
My first and best advice would be to buy or borrow Neil's book on finishing - it really is about the best there is.
On white shelac, sand the timber to say 240 ~ 320. Wet it a little (ie with a damp cloth), and lightly sand again to remove the rasied grain.
Let it sit for 20 mins or so, then either with a decent brush or a soft (lint free) cloth brush/wipe on the shellac mixed with about 10% by volume of good Meths (not the water saturated sort from Bunnies). Let it dry for at least 8 hours (it'll seem dry to the touch in minutes, but it isn't really), then lightly sand with 400 w&d to remove the nibs. Repeat, then use 800w&d, going through stages to 1200w&d (maybe even 2000 or 2500, depending on the finish you want). Six to eight coats are good, more if you want a better finish, but remember that each must have a flat surface on which to start.
Let the piece stand for a week or so, then buff with EEE, then uBeaut Trad Wax, with a Swan's down mop ideally, then by hand.
Thanks Steve,
That is the information I was looking for.
So maybe White Shellac is not what I am looking for.
I wish to use it on carving and do not think I want to wait that long for the process to work its way through.
May be wipe on poly is the way to go.
Regards
Terry
As Bassoon says use the technical grade meths not the stufdf you get from Mitre Ten or blunderings.
For wiping on I use well worn white T shirt material.
Where do you people by your 100% metho.Tried all the hardwares and paint shops in Caboolture area with no luck. Then rang the distributor/manufacturer and was told you need a permit from Aust. Tax office and it comes in 200lt drums.They also told me that metho from the local (95%) was ok for cutting shellac.
Some advice please.
Terry
I've bought mine from the local paint supplier. Never needed to buy more than 1 litre, let alone 200.
Technical grade meths available from outlets supplying french polishing materials. I get mine in 2 litre bottles from Restoration Antiques on Magill Road in Adelaide. Check out Liberon..they can probably point you in the right direction.Quote:
Originally Posted by schaf
Schaf - Look for the Diggers brand, comes in a square-shaped bottle. It's what I use, without any problems.
Also, if using a brush - After use, I put the brush in a large, airtight sandwich bag with a little bit of the meths in the bottom corner. Hang the bag over the edge of the shelf and put a heavy tin on it to keep it hanging in place so the handle doesn't get meths/shellac on it. Idea adapted from the Finishing Bible.
Cheers
Wendy
Any supplier of Haymes paint can buy it in 1 Lt bottles from them. I pay about 6 bucks from the local "Paint Place"
Woodcutta
Ditto!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dylan SJ
One other tip. As I use finishes that variously involve Meths (eg shellac), Turps (eg Danish Oil) or water (stain, which I almost never use these days), I ALWAYS mark up each new brush with the legend "M", "T" or "W" with a marker pen before use - you really don't want to mix them!
I have been asking for industrial grade.Kiwigoe called it technical grade ,maybe I am asking for the wrong thing.
Will try again.
Terry
Its called either....it has other names also. Just ask for 100% meths. Dont have the suppliers name handy as I'm out at work.Quote:
Originally Posted by schaf
Industrial Methylated Spirits or 100% IMS sometimes sold as Ethanol all the same thing. !00% isn't pure alcohol it is denatured alcohol with no addition of water. 95% is a misnomer as it could have up to 20% or more of water in it. Ordinary everyday or no name stuff is as a rule bloody useless as it could have as much as 45% water in it. To be sold as metho it only has to be OP (Over Proof) which means it will burn when a match is put to it, around 55% ethanol (meths)
To find out if your metho has water in it put a little into a bottle or jar and add a little mineral turpentine, shove a lid on and shake the living daylights out of it and if it clouds up (even a little) it has been watered down. If it clouds up a lot then it has been watered down a lot and really isn't suitable for mixing with shellac.
White shellac is the ideal thing for carvings as it will not change the colour of the timber any more than wetting the wood with water. One weak coat (8 parts metho to 1 part shellac) will seal the timber and raise the grain from the sanding this can be sanded off after about half an hour then a second coat of half strength shellac leave it to dry and wax or better still buff with EEE Ultra Shine for a beautiful sheen that will not overpower the carving but instead will bring it to life.
As a woodcarver and finisher I should know. I've used this process on many carvings over the years and it is by far the best, easiest, fastest and most beautiful finish for woodcarvings. Below is one I prepared earlier.
Crappy picture but you'll get the idea.
http://www.ubeaut.com.au/cofarms.jpg
One of 3 Coats of Arms I carved for the Supreme Courts in Melb roughly 3ft high x 3inches thick, Huon pine, finished with the above method. Still have a brilliant glow to them today.
Cheers - Neil :)
Thanks Neil,and one and all for your tips and interest.
Regards Terry