Hi all
I'm painting some weatherboards which are in pretty bad shape. I plan to sand back to bare timber, apply a primer, followed by two coats of acrylic paint (Dulux X-10)
Which primer is better, oil-based or acrylic?
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Hi all
I'm painting some weatherboards which are in pretty bad shape. I plan to sand back to bare timber, apply a primer, followed by two coats of acrylic paint (Dulux X-10)
Which primer is better, oil-based or acrylic?
Hi
Thanks for your reply.
I'm just wondering about the longevity of the "no primer" paint. I keep thinking, "no pain, no gain" ... it just sounds too easy. http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/smile.gif
The other issue is ... if a no primer paint is used, will the colour depth on bare timber be as good as an application on a primed surface?
No prime from what I understand is not realy the truth.
Self priming would probably be more accurate.
My local "burnt out painter paint shop owner" recons it ammounts to using the same product as a primer, undercoat, and top cote.
The number of coats remains the same for the given depth and coverage.
You save by buying a 20L instead of several diferent smaller tins.
Some of the modern non-solvent bassed paints are realy very good and can do just as described above.
The problem with old style gloss enamel is that subsiquent coats did not adhere that well to one another so differing primers & undercoats were requierd for long term adhesion.
In fact it is now commonly recomended to use certain non solvent bassed undercoats when the desired top coat is traditional enamel.
If you can get one of these burnt out painter types talking its amazing what you can learn.
My bloke has a stool on the customer side of the counter for long chat tupe purposes!!
have used cheep paints, only to re-paint 1-2years later.used wattle solagard on my tin roof 10 years ago and not one flake as yet.
NEVER used anything but solagard ever since for outdoors and no problems.
A.JAY