Sanding Advice

I'm in the middle of my most significant plastering experience....

For background......

I had an internal window from my family room in to my study that I decided to revert back.

I filled the hole by creating replacement studs/nogs and then cut an appropriately sized piece of plaster board for each side.

I glued and screwed (stud adhesive) the boards in.

Used paper tape (bedded in) nicely (IMHO) into the joints and then used two coats of joint compound, and a final finish.

I'm now into the sanding stage....I've used a bit of the damp spounge trick to reduce the amount of sanding that I need to do..with some success.

The heart of my question relates to how much sanding do I need to do....

I have been trying to achieve an effect where there is no feelable transition from the old plaster to the new plaster....but I'm wondering if I'm going to far as I'm starting to uncover tape....

So if one of the plastering gurus out there can tell me in 1m x 1m square should it be perfectly flat...or should there be a bulge mound over the joints....

Hmmmm.....do you understand my question??:confused:

G'Day Spartan, I am not a plastering professional, but have just gone through plastering a whole bedroom, including a couple of areas where I joined pieces of gyprock that did not have recessed edges. I also sanded too far on these spots trying to get it smooth and exposed the tape. What I did, was layered the compound over a wider area on these joins which made the mound less noticeable. We know there is a mound there of course, but you cannot see it as the wider the compound is spread, the less the slope of the mound, if that makes sense :)

We have just painted the room with the undercoat/sealer and I am extremely happy with the result. There are no noticeable mounds or lines where any of the joins are.

Kev

Unless you are flushing a recessed edge joint then there's going to be a hump. The further (wider) you feather it out the less noticeable it will be, however it will still be there. If you shine a light across the surface of a platerboard wall you'll most probably find a few bumps and hollows that aren't usually visible. Answer: depends on the lighting and on how fussy you want to be.

Mick

If you have broken through to the tape you may have to top coat over the tape again. The tape once hit with sandpaper scuffs up and will show through the paint.

With a bit of proper trowel work butt joins can be hidden. You just have to trowel wider. See the tips on trowelling butt joins at www.plasterbrokers.com.au We also have tips on sanding.

Cheers Rod Dyson