Advice needed for Balustrade around front veranda

I'm hoping this is the correct forum as Decking sometimes need balustrades.
Attachemtns added.

I've got the OK from the good lady wife to replace the metal balustrade with Timber.
A very close family friend who is a very successful architect stated
"A wood balustrade would certainly enhance the look."

The top of the metal balestrade measures 700mm from the ground.

The top of the first ring on the wood post measure 1meter from the ground.

"Anything below 1 meter would not be to code." - Doh!

The timber balestrade at 1 meter wouldn't look right with the top of the brickwork column being 700mm.


Any positive contructive suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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The second pic is where the post meets the brick column.

I was wordering if this is bad enought to replace.

And I was hoping someone could give positive constructive suggestions as how to repair this.

Hi Barry

You clearly have some lovely heritage features in your house facade, so while your architect thinks it will look good, it would be my preference to not bugger with what is there too much.

Just an idea, but what about building panels between the piers - so that you don't end up having to cut a rail where it meets the post? If the piers are not too wide, and you run the post of the balustrade directly to them, the gap between this post and the post itself (above the pier) might actually be legal.
Hope this is understandable.
Cheers, Justine

Hi Justine,

Thanks heaps for the reply.

Thanks for the acknowledgement regarding the heritage features.
I believe the suggestion was the architects attempt at enhancing the heritage look. As the metal is more 1970's. And not original.

It never crossed my mind to run the top rail between the existing posts (just above the top ring). As you suggested I'd prefer not to. But it may end up being the best solution.

The code max is 100mm between balisters and 120 from the edge of the piers to the edge of the existing posts. So they would be 20mm out.

hmmmmmmm...

I was hoping to keep away from having the balastrade side post from sticking up above the top of the piers.

Trying to get a match between the existing posts for the balastrade side post
or just leaving the balastrade side post simply square would be a hard decision as well.

Thanks again

OK, I've made a decision.

I will just build up/extend the brick work.
To be over the 1 meter height code.

Over the last few days I've made a quick note of every fence and veranda.

All had the posts/columns higher than the fence pickets/balisters.
None, and I mean none had the oposite.

So forced myself to consider other options.
i.e. lateral thinking - something I'm not used to at all. lol

I'm thinking since I can't actually see how the posts are attached to the brick column / pier that perhaps the post is actuall bolted to the verana and the brickwork is built up around it. ????

Anyway I'm hoping that a brick layer (?) will be able to remove the tiles on top and cement another 3 rows of bricks on top of each.
Surrounding the botton three rings of the post.

My architect has informed me that the tiles don't match the era of the house.

Any suggestions as how to weather proof the post before building up the brick work around it would be greatly appreciated.

Any suggestions as to how to cap the top of the brick piers, i.e replacing the tiles would be greatly appreciated.

I don't know as it helps Barry but the min. gap size is 125mm.
As well as coating the posts to stop water penetration I would be looking at sealing around the top of the piers after the brickies finished to stop the water before it gets in. Probably easier said than done. A gradiant away from the post with the capping tiles would be good. Again, easier said than done to get a good finish with a four directional slope.

Barry, how high is the porch off the ground? It may not need a 1m high railing if it doesn't need a railing at all?

Pulse

its about 5 feet

Hi Peter,

Thanks for the techie advice.

The 125mm minimum code is cool instead of the100mm.

But may be mute for me if I try to match my Fret work as pictured. :eek:
Those are 30mm to 50mm apart.
Would be very close together and I'll have to special order the feature boards fretwork for the balusters.


Just driving down my block there are dozens of different ways to cap off a brick column.

I've only seen one that had a column with a post extending from the top.
It's cap was just like mine but the tiles had been painted a really bright yellow for some reason. lol And the post was squared off and not detailed at all.

hmmm, starting to have second thoughts on bricking over the three rings detail at the bottom on the posts.

Hi Barry,
I'd check that the code requires a 1m balustrde for that height patio. If it does, have you thought about a 3 rail balustrade where the bottom and midrails are attached to the brickwork and the top rail is attached at 1m to the posts by 25mm dowel. The balusters would fit between the brickwork and the remaining gap in the area adjacent to the posts between the midrail and toprail would be filled with a painted panel of eg ply, scribed to echo the profile of the post. Perhaps even some fretwork in that panel if it is in keeping with the home's style.

Cheers
Michael

Quote:

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Originally Posted by barrysumpter

hmmm, starting to have second thoughts on bricking over the three rings detail at the bottom on the posts.

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bad idea too bury that post in the new brickwork, water will find a way in, post will definately rot and when it does the bugger of a job replacing the post will be much more difficult. Plus for my money burying the foot of the post will look somewhat odd.

no easy solutions I can think of, sorry.

Thanks for the suggesions everyone...

Hi mic-d,
Anything over 1 meter high is too far for a child of a certain age to fall.
So a balustrade is required.
And the height of the balustrade must be 1 meter to keep a child of a certain age from climbing over.
And the spaces between the balusters must be 100mm max to keep a child (of a certain age) from slipping thru.

"and the top rail is attached at 1m to the posts by 25mm dowel"
Yeah, I was hoping someone would come up with an idea like that.
Excellent.
I just didn't want to do it if I didn't have to.
It would be so easy to mess up. lol

Hi Wayne,
Yeah, fair enough.
I'll see what trouble I can get into with the dowels.