Printable View
Hi all,
new to both renovating and forum. I am attempting my first re-roof and have struck my first problem. The roof is colorbond and after fixing top and bottom of sheet and attempting to place ridge cap I find the screw heads are in the way. Is it simply a matter of removing screws, placing ridge cap then fixing iron through ridge cap?
Thanks,
Peter
Roofers will put a few screws in the trough of the sheet,under the ridge cap,and then srew through the cap and sheet together.
Tools
Yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterR10
Also get some silicon in the holes from where you've removed screws.
and as it's a first roof...
you turned up the end of the sheets ?
Is it corrugated or tray deck profile?
On the coast of NSW all the councils require that the roofers profile cut the ridge cap to prevent the majority of wind driven rain from blowing up under the ridge cap. Inland they don't worry about it because it hardly ever rains here.
On a tray type deck the profile cutting is essential to stop the wind driven rain. Lysaght's hire out profile cutters or notching tools to cut the notches out of the ridge cap.
Hello Peter,
Tools is right,
use a screw or a galv cleat in the valley at the top of your sheets and only tek into the other battons as you work down the roof to the gutter line.
only put a few teks in each sheet as you lay them out, maybe one in each batton as close to the edge as you can go but not in the overlap,
this way you can get the sheets on fast and then go back to fully tek down your sheets. make sure this is done before the end of the day dont leave a half done job cos sure as hell it will blow a gale and blow off that night
Murphys a bastard aint he
Use a string line if you need to give you a nice straight line of teks.
Tek every second flute at the gutter line for uplift forces
put the ridge cap on, scribe in if you can as it always looks better, and then tek thru both cap and sheet in one go.
hope that makes sense
Cheers Ian
I did have my suspicions about some fixes in the valleys but could find nothing in the colorbond manual, the manual that is proving useless. The roof is corrogated. I have turned up the ends. The sheets we are working with are short and only have a battern top and bottom. And Ian, you brought up the point about not fixing the overlap at first. Which leads possibly to my other problem. The sheets that are on so far are not sitting flat at the overlap and show up the join especially with sun coming from side of roof in afternoon. Could this be my problem due to the fact we fixed overlap first?
Thanks,
Peter
this could be a number of thingsQuote:
Which leads possibly to my other problem. The sheets that are on so far are not sitting flat at the overlap and show up the join especially with sun coming from side of roof in afternoon.
you have a screw between the under lap and the over lap - take it out
your turn ups are interfering with the sheets corrugating - trim a small corner off the top of the overlapping sheet so it fits around the turn up of the of the previous under lap. ( when ever possible I turn the sheets up after I've layed them, this isn"t always possible though)
you havnt fitted the sheet snugly enough - fit first sheet then fit next sheet and nudge it away from the first sheet till corrogation fits snugly. ( if that makes sense).
I don't really understand this I've been putting on roofs for years and I always screw the laps first, unless Ian means don't put a screw in the underlapQuote:
only put a few teks in each sheet as you lay them out, maybe one in each batton as close to the edge as you can go but not in the overlap,
We always scribe the ridge in QLD, I think it looks unfinished if it's not done.Quote:
On the coast of NSW all the councils require that the roofers profile cut the ridge cap to prevent the majority of wind driven rain from blowing up under the ridge cap. Inland they don't worry about it because it hardly ever rains here.
I reckon they're just lazy in the other states:D .