Bracing walls

Hi Folks,
<O:p
About to start framing up 3 walls for an extension and was curious about what to do with the bracing. The plans detail sheet bracing (I am assuming 4mm plywood bracing) in about 4 locations @ 900mm and wondered wether to do it as detailed (so 4 sheets) or just do the all the walls? It’s about $200 difference (all was about 13 sheets) and I wondered what most people do when they are renovating? If I go with just the 4 sheets what’s the deal with the fact that the cladding is going to be at least 4mm raised out from the wall were the sheet bracing is applied? <O:p</O:p
<O:p
Thanks in advance :) <O:p</O:p

If its cavity wall construction (ie brick veneer) just sheets as specified should do.
If you are fixing cladding to the walls its best to sheet the entire wall though I suppose you could do as the plans specify and pack all of the intermediate studs and plates so that everything lines up and you get a nice straight wall.

is 4mm the correct bracing thickness in QLD ?
we use thicker sheets down here.

Its timber framed (70mm MGP12) and will have chamfer boards as an external cladding. To be honest I wasn't sure if I was supposed to use 4mm or 7mm bracing (any one able to clarify for N2 here in Brisvegas?). Thanks for the reply echnidna, makes sense to pack the studs but hell that would be a pain (is that what people do huh?) but a straight wall (cladding) would be nice ;)

4mm f27 ply bracing will do fine. To save a few dollars you may be able to use 4.8mm masonite as well. The a mount of sheets specified on the plan will be more than enough. Just make sure that if two sheets are butted together put a double stud in. Each sheet needs a full stud to nail to. If you have a coil gun use that otherwise it will take you a day to hand nail.
stef

You might be able to use metal angle cross bracing depending on the amount of openings in the wall. check with the building surveyor / inspector.

Easiest option is metal angle bracing as thebuildingsurv pointed out, used on both internal and external face of the frame is also an option. You need to check first though.

If you must have ply/masonite ect give a bit of thought for that extra thickness in regards to window and door reveals. Aluminium windows/doors you want your cladding to slide in behind the aluminium section if at all possible.

I kid you not but that galv angle bracing is not a patch on old fashioned 2" x 1" braces or sheet bracing.
Its your own house, so spend a little extra and do the best job possible.

Can you have a chat to your friendly building inspector - we found ours to be of great assistance when sorting out details like that. More impartial than your builder, because they are not factoring time and material costs into the advice.
Cheers
Justine

If you just do the minimum as specified, you'll still have to cut strips to pack out the rest of the wall studs. I've never done the sums, but I'm lazy & sheet the whole thing. It seems to be a lot less hassle than going around packing everything.

Wall bracing is my pet subject. These are a few pics of the house I am building as an owner builder. And yes, I hammered in nearly every one of those thousands of nails. The specification said 7mm ply.

I always use ply bracing on the specified walls and pack the remaining studs with strips of ply. It really isn't that tedious you don't have to be very neat just rip a few lengths and snap them off to the required length.

Thanks for all the replies folks :)

Emailed the certifier about 4mm ply saying I assumed this was OK and he didn't say it wasn't so that is what I got (he also reckons most sheet the whole thing as packing out is labour/cost intensive). I will look to do all the walls. Good effort Metung but I don't reckon I am keen on hand nailing mine so what nails are suitable? I have a 50mm - 100mm clipped head framing gun but a mate has a smaller gun that take T type thin gague nails so could something like that be used?

Definitely don't use tee nails it won't pass inspection, pretty sure clipped head won't pass either.
The best way is with a coil nailer with 2.8 x 30 or 40 mm (depending on specs) bracing nails.
Don't forget nail spacing is important too 50 mm on the top and bottom plate, 150 mm on the vertical edges and 300 mm on the intermediate studs.

I found the job was made a lot easier by marking the positions of the studs on the sheet with a chalk line and marking nail positions before putting the sheet up. Pieces of offcut with the appropriate nail spacings marked on them make ideal templates. That way the nailing was a purely mechanical process which became more important the higher I went.