locating French doors in an existing window frame.

I am wanting to remove the middle fixed windows and put in these French Doors.
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So, remove the glass, cut out the wall (probably double brick, but could be stone, house dates to 1904). Wall is hard rendered on inside and shot concrete style render outside.


So which part of the timber window frame do I remove?


The distance between the window frames where the doors are to go is 1255mm.
The recycled doorframe is 1285mm.
The window frames in that area are 45mm thick, and around 110mm deep (dressed and chamfered)


To centre the doors I would need to trim 15mm off each of the window frames that are to the left and right of the doorway.
Once I get the wall out from under I should have access to run a vertical cut. It would be old rock hard jarrah, a circular saw through there would be hard pressed to stay on track so maybe a hand saw and muscle.
-OR-
Should I remove that part of the window frame(s) and install new timber, or maybe even a new thicker door frame?


Trimming off with architraves etc should be ok I am hoping.


The door frame being recycled is the same depth as the other (main) timbers in the window frame. 120mm.


Just trying to get an idea of what I will do before I remove the glass and masonry and have a big hole for the whole world... and the possums and bandicoots.
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If my interpretation of your photos is correct I am almost certain that the stiles/mullions of the windows are the structural supports for the roof which was a fairly common technique of that era. Lift a couple roof sheets and have a look and depending what you find will have a substantial effect on how you tackle this.

thanks Ray, that's a very good point as the middle window stile will be removed.
The plan is to leave the window head/top rail in place, but I don't know what is above that.

In my rough assessment when buying the French Doors I guessed there would be some room between the door frame header and the window top rail so if there is a support issue I might be able to get a steel lintel in there.

The Perth heatwave is passing so I will try and have a look-see.

Stage 2 of Plan B
The drill hole in the middle bottom through the concrete "slab" is at the internal floor level.
I have no idea what to call that concrete? A ring beam?
Or why it was done that way.
It is only a brick wide/thick obviously.

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took out the window including 3 mullions.
roof still there.
no sagging.
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test fit frame with flyscreens (mainly to keep the possums and other wildlife out overnight).
still to remove internal brickwork and tackle that concrete "ring beam"
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Can’t answer about the foundation question. Are you reinstating the pavers at that level? Is it likely that area is subject to overland water flow at any time? How are you addressing insect infestation?

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Originally Posted by mic-d

Can’t answer about the foundation question. Are you reinstating the pavers at that level? Is it likely that area is subject to overland water flow at any time? How are you addressing insect infestation?

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am going to lower the pavers.
been dry so far, 3 years, but it is a possibility, so will be flashing etc.
the paving does slope downhill in a subtle spoon drain style.
insects? lol. if I can keep the possums out I am happy - I can't; otherwise I apply the balance of nature method.

By Insect infestation I mainly meant termites, if you have them in your part of the world. If you do, keeping the timber AGL and getting a barrier treatment around it might be all you need to do

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mic-d

By Insect infestation I mainly meant termites, if you have them in your part of the world. If you do, keeping the timber AGL and getting a barrier treatment around it might be all you need to do

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ah, yep. plenty of termites here.
will redo the barrier treatment in the near future - Termidor is the only stuff worth using.

removed the internal brick wall today.
that concrete ring beam, wasn't after all.
it was 2 courses of brickwork rendered.
presumably with a damp course additive?
there was also plastic membrane below it which is one of the reasons I didn't twig to it
the other reason was that section of the house is quite old and I didn't think they did concrete waterproof additives back then.

anyway, still plenty to do, but it can wait til next year ;)

back to possum proofing:

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pretty quiet in these forums eh?
where have all the old regulars gone? over to the dark side?

got back to this project and spent ages sorting the side casement windows.
ok, they weren't the best to start with.
but they tried to trick me - one was 10mm wider than the other and had different size internal trims.
and of course, nothing was plumb.
had to replace the mullions with new timber (a saga in itself) since I found it impossible to rip the old jarrah ones to the new size required.

have also taken up the previous pavers to work out my new levels.
still undecided on what to use for the threshold below the door frame - probably matching paver bricks, tho I have an antique slate one somewhere that could be cut down.

Thanks for update. There's still some of us here (old regulars, and getting older :) ), if like me, usually just watching when that's all that's required. Need a bunch of newbies with lots of questions for us all to help with :)

big of a saga last weekend.
but had success, eventually, with Plan D

at first I tried to do it the right way.
frame had been braced to make sure it remained true.
(I even laid it down and did a test fit of the doors with the bracing on - all seemed ok).

did a new threshold to suit the new frame position - recycled pavers cemented in.
put in the frame - nice snug fit.
screwed it into position - everything nice and plumb & square.

tried to put the doors in - nothing fits. :oo:
out of whack by a long way - 5mm - 10mm in places.
hmmm.
played for a while - ages actually.
no joy. :(

Plan D:

• take out the frame.
• take out the new threshold :(
• put the frame back in but just clamped into position
• mount the main doors in the frame
• make sure everything opens and shuts
• screw home the frame in its new position - gradually, one screw at a time.

I found just one screw too tight would twist the frame (its 120mmx30mm, oak maybe?) which was one reason causing the doors to bind.
additionally, I found the frame had to be out of plumb, by just a smidgen, maybe 1mm on the big set square, for the doors to operate - so either it was not originally mounted square in its long time ago home, or had warped/twisted over the years (this more likely).

so, all good now.
except I have to redo the new threshold the hard way - and my pavers won't fit under it in its new position.
oh well.

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Looking good. Old stuff can be tricky, no doubt. You're sure to be happy with the outcome