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Hello. Making some 100mm diameter coasters of Tas Myrtle, and wondering what would be the best finsh, bearing in mind it will be in contact with hot cups or tea and coffee , and alcohol drinks, where there is sure to be spillage of the latter 🤪
Can anyone please suggest some suitable finishes that will not be damaged with the above ?
i'd go with an oil finish like danish oil or similar. Main reason being is that they will get pretty beaten up/thrown around with use. Using an oil finish rather than a something that creates a film will allow you to quickly refresh them as required.
Thanks tonzeyd for this suggestion. Our beloved benevolent dictator for life often points out that Danish Oil is usually a weakened mix of Polyurethane and turps etc. And turns the timber yellow.
Can you suggest an alternative please?
Rustins plastic Coating.
Found this post I did here 10 years ago. I used Kunos Countertop Oil #243. It is still going strong, has not needed any further coats. Only difference is the huon pine had turned a much darker brown colour, still looks good. We do take care of them, using crocheted circular pattern between the hot cups and the timber.
Buy organic, buy Australian
Home - Constantia Organic Finishes
Uses Chinese Wood Oil !! give me German made Livos Kunos any day
Did you know, for a fact, that the Chinese were the first to combine Tung oil with other products to make a wood finish? i take it no.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dengue
You have obviously gone to the site and had a look so maybe if you had done some reading while there you would have found out that Constantia products are made from 100% organic Australian sourced products and that the name Chinese Wood Oil harks back to the way it is blended, it contains no Chinese products nor is it made there.
I use this product as well as sell it and i can tell you honestly that it is the best and easiest product on the market to use, and i have tried many.
So, by all means keep using the Livos and send your money offshore but please do not dis a product you have no idea about.
I made a set from mixed hardwoods a year ago and used Evolution Hardwax Oil from Timbecon.
Super easy to apply, a little goes a long way and they are holding up to hot mugs and beers ok!
I'm planning to make another batch with labels, using a Cricut machine either from metallic foil or vinyl. I'm not sure if the hardwax oil will work or not being applied over the label.
I was thinking maybe a wipe on poly or the Plastic coating suggested..
I had a look at their website and I can't see where it says they source all their ingredients from Australia. The SDS for the Chinese Wood Oil says the ingredients are turpentine and tung oil. I think it's highly likely the tung oil is sourced from China (or elsewhere in Asia).Quote:
Originally Posted by double.d
Since you sell the product, can you guarantee the tung oil in the product is sourced from Australia?
I'd go with the Evolution Hard Wax because its food safe and water-resistant once cured - they have sample tins that are great value for small projects.
(pulls up boots, puts on combat helmet, looks over the parapet ...)
Danish Oil from Bunnings and the paint shop has the synthetic additives that give it a bad reputation. Organoil Ye Olde Danish Oil by Prep made in downtown Revesby has always worked great for me and doesn't have the nasties (metal-based drying agents for example). I also put a coat of homemade paste wax (Beeswax, Boiled Linseed Oil, and Gum Turpentine - the raw ingredients purchased from an arts supplier so its only the natural products) on household products.