Any ideas on a long lasting finish and/or the best method, for a couple of long Red Gum pepper mills.
Thanks.
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Any ideas on a long lasting finish and/or the best method, for a couple of long Red Gum pepper mills.
Thanks.
We love our pepper and have four grinders in the kitchen with different peppers in each. I've used Danish Oil (Rustins), Whittle Evolution hard wax oil and clear lacquer and all have held up well for about 3 or 4 years. I like Danish on darker woods, in our case blackwood. Like the Whittle on a pale wood where I want to retain the natural colour. It's not completely clear and will put a pale yellowish tint on the wood but for a piece of Macrocarpa pine. it looks just fine.
The lacquer is as close to clear as you could get but neither of us like the smooth shiny finish. It tends to be a bit slippery to hold, particularly if my hands are damp.
So Danish Oil and Whittles Evolution hard wax oil are my preference.
As as, aside our favourite pepper is White Kampot from Cambodia. This is nothing like the white pepper you can get from a supermarket. Kampot pepper comes in 3 types, white, red and black which are different maturities of the same berry. A number of suppliers in Australia sell it online.
Thanks for your informative reply. I will do as you suggest. The timber is very old grape trellis posts, beautiful Red Gum, quite hard but workable.
cheers Andrew
What gloss did you use with the hard wax oil and how many coats of the danish oil and the hard wax oil.
Thanks again.
I have made a few pepper mills and other kitchen utensils / handles out of locally sourced salmon gum (pretty similar to red gum) and from timber / resin hybrid blanks which I cast myself. I have always got the best finishing results on the lathe using U-beaut's EEE Ultrashine to finish off the fine sanding, followed by a few applications of their "Aussie Oil" friction polish. This combination has worked well for me both on the resin (clear and coloured) and on the timber giving a dry gloss long lasting finish.
That’s what I do, seems to work well, thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMKal
Have tried both the gloss and matt. The gloss isn't super glossy, more of a matt finish and the matt is lower sheen. My preference was for the gloss.Quote:
Originally Posted by clarky
As for the Danish, depends a little on the porosity of the wood but around 4 coats. This is not based on any particular level of science, rather keep applying until Im happy with the look. With Danish I like to leave it for a week or so to harden then give it a polish with Ubeaut EEE.
Thanks again.
If you're making them on the lathe. Shellawax, Shellawax Glow and Aussie Oil (all at least 3 coats) will all stand up really well to use and handling. All 3 can be used over EEE-Ultra Shine. Aussie Oil can be hand rubbed if off the lathe.
I have had a pair of salt and pepper grinders for going on 20 years that were finished with Shellawax, 3 coats and they are still as good as when I was given them back in 2002.
You can apply coat on coat no need to sand between applications and waiting time of around a minute between coats. You do have to allow 20 odd days for the finishes to cross link before you get full resistance to marking from water, alcohol, heat, etc.
They will resist marking straight away (water and other liquids will bead up and roll off the surface straight after being finished) so long as they are wiped down with a clean dry cloth after being subjected to water, etc.
Cleaning and maintenance: Wipe down with slightly damp cloth (soapy or not) and dry. Never put into dish washer.
Cheers - Neil :U
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Haven't tried Shellawax or Shellawax Glow yet - will have to get me some. Always on the lookout for good, Australian made products to use in the shed.