redgum tabletop

I'm making a redgum tabletop from old roadside posts collected over the years by a neighbour who worked on the roads of north east victoria. I'm using dewaxed blonde shellac and a wax finish, first attempt was a dismal failure due to the tabletop resembling a speckled sussex chook rather than a lustrous waxed finish (the wax in the cracks etc turned white).
what I'd like to know is, what do you suggest I use as a sealer on the redgum to fill in old checks, cracks, old nail holes etc. before I apply numerous coats of shellac finished with a hard wax?
Thankyou.

On the red gum that I have used for kitchen products, I used black tinted epoxy. The black/red contrast looks, in my opine, good.

Thanks Cava, I have used epoxy on the larger imperfections. I suppose I was after some sort of sealer, that would suit the redgum colour, to close up/hide the smaller imperfections.

+1 for epoxy. I use Luciclear casting resin to fill all those small (and large) imperfections.

Cheers Twosheds, is the casting resin a thinner form of epoxy.

Hi Huon.... the Luciclear casting resin is a 2:1 ratio epoxy. I'm not sure whether it is thinner than other brands of epoxies used for filling voids in timber, however it will run into the smallest cracks and holes some of which were not readily visible until you add the Luciclear. You have to be really careful to mask the bottom side of any cracks or holes that go through your workpiece otherwise the Luciclear will keep running through. I have found it to be a really good product provided you read and pay attention to the instructions. It can be used clear or tinted and when cured can be coated with most timber finishes, including hard waxes. I'm sure there are other epoxies out there that others will recommend that will also do a good job (just so you know I'm not too biased or receiving a commission).

Regards
Twosheds

Bewdy Twosheds, I'll google it and check it out.

As twosheds (now 3) says, make sure to fill/seal any cracks voids etc on the underside no matter how small or insignificant they might appear. Casting resin has the ability to follow even the thinnest hairline crack through the wood and continue to run out. For a big surface like a tabletop it would be a good idea to glue paper to the entire base with PVA and sand it off later.

Might also be a good idea to seal any ends and side of the top as well it's really sneaky stuff and will find even the most minute escape route of one is left unsealed.

I've used clear casting resin a number of times and after the first time was extremely careful about sealing every area the resin wasn't going to ne applies to.

Also make sure there are no wet sections/bits as it definitely doesn't like water either.

Cheers - Neil :U

PS You may be able to get tints from whoever you get the resin from. Luci Clear Resin is available from Timbecon Melb and I believe they may have a range of pigment colours.

Thanks Neil. I've decided to try another idea that I've been mulling over. I've decided to use timbermate putty sealer. what I've done is to put down several coats of shellac then use the ebony coloured timbermate to fill in the imperfections. My thinking was that the following sanding wont be too severe, which it wasn't. the timbermate on top of the shellac came off easily leaving behind a smooth finish. I've now put on one coat of shellac, the results are pretty good. now for several more coats.
Cheers all