boiled linseed oil: minimum curing temperature?

specifically, if it matters, "diggers pale boiled linseed oil added drying agents"

i'm used to glue, paint, etc containers having instructions like needing it to be at least 8-10C for proper curing. this bottle has no such instruction, and i'm not sure if it's because temperature doesn't matter in this case, or because it's assumed i just know already (but i don't)

my workshop space is drafty and not really insulated at all, so it's generally around ambient outdoor temperature in there. this time of year, that's pretty cold -- don't think it got above 10C today, and the forecast says it'll drop to 1C overnight :cool:

i don't mind bringing glue-ups into the house to cure in cold weather, but the BLO smells like i should probably be wearing a respirator, so bringing it into the house isn't an option. paint stinks too; i postpone paint jobs until the workshop is consistently warm enough even overnight, which is usually not till late spring

i have a few small pieces that are finally sanded and ready for a BLO and wax finish, after having sat rough and neglected in a drawer for a year or two. if i finish them now while it's cold, am i going to have problems? should i just stick em back in the drawer again, and wait for warmer weather?

Hi B. Should be okay. My work shop has similar climate control issues and for the most part I have had no dramas with drying. I do use BLO in an equal parts mix with turpentine oil and oil based Cabots clear which may affect my results. Maybe test on a sample piece of the same timber first?

Curing time depends on many things like, humidity, temperature, type of wood (this effects how much is absorbed), how much is applied or left on the wood, and what additives are in the BLO - they are not all the same.

Straight linseed oil on a cold humid day can take weeks to cure through to a thin coat of Pale Boiled Linseed (BLO also has additives) on some woods. thru to hot dry day with additives can take a few hours. I found its really important to apply liberally and leave for a few minutes and then wipe off excess. Adding turps specs things up.

My tool handles are all BLO.
1) Coat applied, leave for an hour, wipe off and left ON.
2) Second coat is BLO with the same cloth as for 1) but as well as BLO add two drops of white shellac. Rest same as 1)
3) repeat 2 but with 4 drops of shellac
4) Repeat 2) but with 6 drops of shellac.
That's usually enough but you can go a couple more if you want to.