Long term soak of axe handle in linseed oil

Hi,

I have read old references, comments and possibly rumours that there is benefit to be gained by soaking a new axe handle in oil for a long period (eg. 3-6 months). I believe that the long soak is expected to allow oil to penetrate deep into the timber, thus increasing flexibility, reducing the likelihood of surface impact chipping and improving waterproofing.

Has anyone heard about this - or tried it?

The concept is more of a curiosity for me rather than a genuine need for the ultimate axe handle. I have made up an axe handle blank (Spotted Gum) as well as 4 hammer handle blanks (unidentified recycled timber - seems to be Oz grown) and plan to make many more over the years.

The current idea in my mind is to place the axe and hammer handles into a vacuum bag along with linseed oil. A vacuum would be used to remove most of the air which should slow the curing of the oil so that it continues to soak in over a long period. I could intermittently release and re-vacuum the bag to remove any air that may come out of the wood. Upon releasing the contents from the bag, the surface layer of oil is expected to cure and 'trap' uncured oil within.

Attachment 501600

I usually mix turps 50:50 in with Raw Linseed Oil to aid penetration. For the vacuum bag idea, I expect that I would add 10-20% turps to enhance penetration. Would anyone suspect potential drawbacks of timber soaking in turps for such a long time?

Thanks!

My father was a timber faller and spent many years felling large karri and jarrah with axes and cross cut saws.
I have never heard of soaking axe handles in the manner you describe. He stored his axes in slots in wooden boxes and carried them in the bush in hessian bags with leather guards over the blades. To grip the handles he would spit onto his hands

I have soaked the head (about first 1/2") of the axe in water or linseed oil to tighten a loose head. Over night or cpl days, only. put linseed oil on handle but not soaked. If you're patient enough to wait six months, let us know how it went.
TM

Oldmeadow

About forty years ago I worked with a man whose previous job had been at a sawmill in the Warialda region of NSW. He told me the sawmill kept all their axe handles soaking in a trough of oil until they were fitted to an axe. I got the impression it could be for months and he said the aim was to increase the "whippiness" (my term) of the handles. I don't think the oil was anything special: Maybe it was sump oil, but I can't exactly recall now after all this time.

I don't think soaking the handles would harm from this process at all, but exactly how much benefit there is will be hard to assess. I imagine they have to dry out for a while too before use or I can see them wizzing all over the place.

Regards
Paul

My favourite axe is my Fiskar splitter with a composite handle, so excuse my ignorance when it comes to wooden handled axes, but enquiring minds want to know ...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TermiMonster

I have soaked the head (about first 1/2") of the axe in water or linseed oil to tighten a loose head.

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Is this the correct way to tighten a head, rather than driving a wedge into it instead? Are you not concerned that if not used for a time the wood may dry out and the head slip off in a moment of anger?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bushmiller

He told me the sawmill kept all their axe handles soaking in a trough of oil until they were fitted to an axe.

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This is even more perplexing. Wouldn't the handle at the point of having the head fitted be at its largest dimension being well hydrated, and only going to dry out and shrink from that point on, leading to a loose head?

:?

In reply to the first, I have heard that soaking handles that are already hung on heads only provides temporary improvement and the head is likely to dry out again.

I have tried this myself out of interest on some hammer handles (soaking head with oil) and I did seem to achieve a bit of benefit without lasting effects.

I have heard that water soaking is to be only done in an emergency when an axe needs to be used for a short time and wedges placed later on.

Personally, I wouldn't want to try it on an axe as I'm more likely to travel with it and use it outside of controlled humidity and temperature conditions, and I don't want anyone to be cut apart by a flying sharpened head. I would be more inclined to drive extra wedges.

For the second, great point! It may be worthwhile for me to leave the handle to 'stabilise' for a month after soaking before hanging it onto the head.

Is this the correct way to tighten a head, rather than driving a wedge into it instead? Are you not concerned that if not used for a time the wood may dry out and the head slip off in a moment of anger?

I wouldn't say 'correct', but it works. You still need the wedges (i use 2 timber wedges, 1 full lgthe and a second across). An old chippy (not as old as I am now, though) showed me that trick, and it is only meant to be a temporary fix.

I always add wedges where necessary