It’s all gone too Poo

I’m Trying to put a finish on a Saw I’ve just finished shaping,and well its not going to plan [emoji35].

This is the second coat, the first coat was not as bad,but this one is worse.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5bad18033a.jpg


Timber is Jarrah an was first sanded to 600 grit followed by a wash down with turps then aloud to air dry before a coat of Feast Watson clear Varnish matt(Don’t its not clever) was applied.

This was sanded back lightly where needed,there were a few blemishes with 600 and washed with turps then dried off.

Second coat was applied, and with in an hour, I’m getting this white froth in places,the finish is being applied with a new clean brush.

So to the brains trust what am doing wrong I’m frustrated?

This is meant to be a three part finish that AKA Mr BUSHMILLAR shared with me.
Two coats of Varnish.
Then rub in some Scandinavian Teak Oil with steel wool until the oil has gone.
Then buff with a soft cloth and apply some furniture polish or wax.

Cheers Matthttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...df169280b3.jpg

not going to lie, I'm on a 4k monitor and the quality of those photo's is not great, almost looks like a water colour. Makes it very hard to see the issues, i would take it outside in some natural day light and try again.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simplicity

This is meant to be a three part finish that AKA Mr BUSHMILLAR shared with me.
Two coats of Varnish.
Then rub in some Scandinavian Teak Oil with steel wool until the oil has gone.
Then buff with a soft cloth and apply some furniture polish or wax.

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It's hard to see exactly what the issue is based on the photos, so I'll take some stabs at it.
1. If the blotchy patches exist in real life, did you make sure you had completed sanding each of the grits fully before moving on the the next one?
2. If the white parts of the images are actually white, and not just reflections, did the varnish have enough time to fully cure before sanding? Or, is the varnish old or water contaminated?

Not related to your issues, I'm also intrigued by the notion of putting oil on top of varnish. Would either you or Bushmiller care to elaborate?

Will upload some better pictures later, but in my defence members of the court I only pushed the button on the IPad once the button is pushed it’s completely out of my control[emoji6].
Lance yes it’s the white frothy stuff that is the problem?

Cheers Matt.

Better pic,
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...fae958bc49.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LanceC

Not related to your issues, I'm also intrigued by the notion of putting oil on top of varnish. Would either you or Bushmiller care to elaborate?

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Lance

It is a technique I have used for a long time and I got from the Wattyl brand (it used to be written on their tins of matt varnish). The Scandinavian Teak Oil is very thin and acts as a lubricant for the steel wool (you can use a scourer, kitchen style but not too coarse, if you don't like steel wool) and results in a sliky smooth finish that has a sheen similar to that obtained with satin varnish. However, the texture of the finish is vastly superior. I suspect that Danish Oil could be substituted. As I have run out of the teak Oil and have plenty of Danish I plan to try that. After all that I sometimes then add furniture polish and buff that too.

I am not sure what has happened with the finish on Matt's handle, but I would sand it back and try again. It does sound and look as though some moisture was either present at the start or has got in during the drying period.

Regards
Paul

I'm with Bushmiller it would appear that moisture is the problem.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bushmiller

The Scandinavian Teak Oil is very thin and acts as a lubricant for the steel wool ...

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Ahhh, got it.

Ok if moisture is the problem, it maybe and it’s a maybe not an admission of guilt, that after my wash down with Turps, which may have a moisture content.
I didn’t leave enough dry time, tho it was a few hours during the day,the main issue with this is, if My lovely beautiful wife(Suck) hears this is will validly her opinion of me being inpatient [emoji45][emoji45][emoji45].

Bugger.

Cheers Matt.

Moisture and possibly too low a temperature for curing . . . DAMIKT!

We are clear to go,for Scandinavian Teak Oil just waiting on Australian Post[emoji6].

Thanks for all the help and suggestions people.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2d225e4827.jpg


Thats about 3 hours of drying time so far,so fairly confident I’m over that hurdle an on the main straight.

Matt

I really like the look of that handle The proportions look just right and the finesse is very pleasing too. I am sure you have mentioned the timber before but.....?

Regard
Paul

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Matt

I really like the look of that handle The proportions look just right and the finesse is very pleasing too. I am sure you have mentioned the timber before but.....?

Regard
Paul

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Thanks Paul.

[emoji6] I’ve mentioned the timber a few Times, it’s Eucalyptus marginata common name Jarrah.

Cheers Matt.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Lance

It is a technique I have used for a long time and I got from the Wattyl brand (it used to be written on their tins of matt varnish).

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And on their tins of teak oil. :U
Attachment 501138

I wonder if you can still buy the stuff, I haven’t got much left after forty years. :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Picko

And on their tins of teak oil. :U
Attachment 501138

I wonder if you can still buy the stuff, I haven’t got much left after forty years. :D

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Picko

You have raised an interesting question there as i went looking for the product for Matt. The Wattyl website does not seem to list either the varnish or the oil, which leads me to believe the company is phasing out these products. Ebay did have some Teak oil listed, but it seemed horrendously exxpensive and far more than I remember it costing.

The fact is that you can use any matt varnish and substitute any thin oil. I think Danish oil would be fine and I will be using that next.

Regards
Paul