Best way to finish figured wood

I see a number of completed works that have incorporated figured woods such as fiddleback, curly etc that give a 3D effect on the surface. When I use these woods sometimes they will have an indication of that appearance when I start thinking it will be enhanced when I finish them, but usually come away disappointed. I sand them to a very fine surface before adding the finish. I have used oils, Shellac and a few other types of finishes but never seem to be able to replicate what I see on other pieces. Even just looking at timber for sale at times, the seller has only wet the timber and they get the effect I am after so it makes me think I am doing something wrong.
Any advice would be appreciated.

Shellac and oil based finish typically result in the most grain 'pop'. With shellac more subsequent coats tends to enhance this 3D look.

Maybe the photographers are skilled in the art of the right angle, lighting, filtering and contrast :)

Hi TC. My experience is limited but I know that wood generally looks better after being planed than after being sanded, which can be difficult to do on figured timbers. Scraping perhaps? Or low/high angle blades? Based on some of your other posts I am probably in danger of telling you how to suck eggs. My apologies if that is the case

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Originally Posted by Treecycle

I see a number of completed works that have incorporated figured woods such as fiddleback, curly etc that give a 3D effect on the surface. When I use these woods sometimes they will have an indication of that appearance when I start thinking it will be enhanced when I finish them, but usually come away disappointed. I sand them to a very fine surface before adding the finish. I have used oils, Shellac and a few other types of finishes but never seem to be able to replicate what I see on other pieces. Even just looking at timber for sale at times, the seller has only wet the timber and they get the effect I am after so it makes me think I am doing something wrong.
Any advice would be appreciated.

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Have had similar problems in the past, try a water based finish as this will only alter the appearance very slightly. I was happy with a water based poly.

Hi Dallas,

I don’t have the definitive answer to your question but I think Mountain Ash is on the right track. The last work on my boxes before applying finish is done with a card scaper. To me it gives a cleaner, sharper finish than sanding. I’m also careful to vacuum the box thoroughly and wipe with a tack cloth (or a rag dampened with metho) to ensure that any sanding dust (that flattens the look) is removed.

Will we be seeing the boxes (hint, hint)? :D

Best regards,

Brian

Thanks for all the ideas and I will have to follow through with them to see what I can achieve. Below are some photos of the panel I was trying to achieve the effect on. If you get the light on it the right way I have partially got what I was hoping for but not the full depth of 3D seen on other pieces. I will certainly have to give the scraper a go next time.

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The best in depth look to a finish .

1. Wood that will show it off well. But a good shine makes even average wood look better.

2. The clarity of the finish . Plenty are clear enough but some are cloudy . Just inspect them in a jar to see that.

3. The grain being full helps but I think the most important thing is the final shine . It doesn't need to be a super gloss shine to achieve this . I see this all the time when polishing things up using shellac towards the end of a job . The more shine it gets the more depth I see. It gets to glossy with shellac at the end so I let it dry a day then come back and reduce shine and give a wax . Its now smoother to feel and has less reflectivity but the depth is still there. It hasn't been reduced by doing that.

Its exactly the same as when you walk up to a pool of water . A rock pool at the beach . If the water is stirred up with things floating around in it and the wind is blowing you cant see through it . If it has been sitting for days and is clear but the wind is up it still doesn't look great . With no wind and a perfect calm smooth surface you can see right through and it looks great . A clear blue sky helps too .

One of the great things about knowing how to use shellac is the ability to build and watch as the finish goes through stages . There's a few stages and you just decide when you want to hop off and leave it at that and concentrate on the end shine . The finish of the finish :) . You don't get those options with out of the can oil or water based finishes as much .

I think Auscab description above, on light reflection through finishes, is one of the best posts I’ve seen hear in while [emoji120].

Cheers Matt.

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Originally Posted by Treecycle

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What finish have you used on that lid, Dallas, and what has been done to 'finish the finish'?

I have used Shellac first and then finished it off with a wax.

Hi Dallas. Your box looks great . There's only so far you will make Vic ash is it ? Or wood like? Pop, as its sometimes called .

If your using shellac and wax already you may have been taking the approach sometimes recommended where brush coating, a cut back and then waxing at the end is suggested.

The good, harder to learn way is building / filling the open grain up with shellac and not adding much height in thickness on top of the high point of the wood . You bring the low points up level with the top and let it settle a bit then finish . A full grain and level top gives you the reflective surface to look through . Even when waxed which gives a very desirable look and feel to it . Shellac shine by itself is a bit to shinny and glitzy for most peoples taste.

You cant do that by just coating with brush or wiping with a rag to build it up . A french polishing rubber must be used . Its got to be done in stages . The first stages look like nothing has been done but it has. People get lost because of this I think . A good cut back between each stage with oil and turps mix and fine worn sand paper rubs the top back but not the low open grain . That builds with each go . When your good at it three good Rubber build coats called "Bodys" is enough to have the grain filled on most average open grained timbers . Then you do the finishing stages . Much thinner shellac is a must have for this . Linseed oil then comes into it as well to lubricate the finishing of the finish. At this point the depth will really be noticeable . Once that is sorted you could leave it very shinny or wax it .
A dulling process is normally needed before waxing .

One way of doing this that is the best method I think, is to oil and turps cut back with super fine paper, then rub back lightly with the grain with 0000 only Liberon steel wool . Then with REALLY fine shellac give a VERY short small body , just a few straight strokes and leave it . let dry a few hours or a day and then wax and buff.

Or the second best way . Rub back your finish straight with 0000 Liberon steel wool and oil and turps . And wax then buff. this will be a more dull wax finish . The first best way with practice get you right in between in the sweet spot .



Here's a Walnut piece I made and was polishing . Finishing off with linseed oil and very thin shellac. Pay attention At the very start, you can see a dull left side which is about to be given the rubber but the right side has already had a minutes with of rubbing when I decided to film it . There music to go with it too so turn up the sound . It makes a difference believe it or not :U.

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There's a post either side of that instagram post showing more of the piece and polishing too .

Rob

Brilliant advice there from Rob. Dallas, I'm just a plugger but I've found that experimenting with shellac along the lines of Rob's advice is an awesome journey. I got some really curly Camphor Laurel off one of the guys on this site a few years ago and found that experimenting with shellac in that way Rob describes is kind of liberating stuff, and brings awesome results with patience. You can rub it back, lay it on again and again. So true what he said, at first it looks nothing but after the 5th or 6th coat, suddenly it's magic.

That is great advice there Rob. Filling the grain might be the part where I'm falling down as the lid does still have low spots in the grain. Does the Turps need to be thoroughly wiped from the surface before going on to another layer of Shellac?
I will look forward to having another go and try to follow your method.

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Originally Posted by Treecycle

Does the Turps need to be thoroughly wiped from the surface before going on to another layer of Shellac?

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The Oil and Turps , mixed 20 / 80 or 25 / 75 . Rubbed back with a 320 to 400 grit paper.
Yes wipe it all off before starting again with shellac . Straight after using it . Then pick up a second dry rag and wipe again .
let it sit to long, like a day or two and the oil will start going hard if its Boiled Linseed . That causes problems if it stays between shellac body's . Its just there to stop the paper clogging and lets it keep cutting back nicely .

I am always impressed with the finishes that the luthiers use.

Following some of these people on Instagram has filled me with finishing envy!