Printable View
Am looking for a clear-ish oil based finish for a celery top pine outdoor bench seat. Want to retain the colour of the pine and the grain features. Any suggestions welcome. Have tried the intergrain decking oil but consider it too dark and thus blocks out much of the natural grain.
I have some outdoor hardwood (balustrades and stairs) that cop the full sun all day.
I was recommended on installation cutek cd50 by manufacturer. It is pricey but goes a long way.
I have mainly used a stained tin for deck areas but have used a clear one one a side path and it didn't change colour.
As always, buy a small pot and test first!
Contact Organoil and see what they have.
What you're looking for is kind'a their speciality. :2tsup:
:U
This is good advice, but cutek doesn’t last long in full weather IMO. The can says recoat 6-10 month from memory? I found every 3 on my Blackbutt decking, 4 tops!Quote:
Cgcc
I have some outdoor hardwood (balustrades and stairs) that cop the full sun all day.
I was recommended on installation cutek cd50 by manufacturer. It is pricey but goes a long way.
I have mainly used a stained tin for deck areas but have used a clear one one a side path and it didn't change colour.
As always, buy a small pot and test first!
Thanks Lee roy. Ordered some cd50 after Cgcc's suggestion so will see how it goes. Sounds like I need to recoat regularly. What are you using an an indicator for recoatingQuote:
Originally Posted by Lee roy
It is good stuff. My indicator was how well it repelled water and how dry it looked. First 3-4 months water beaded noticeably on top. After that it looked very dry quickly and absorbed water easily. This was a well aired deck, about 2m above ground that was coated both sides before laying (oh the mess!)
Attachment 496511
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee roy
It is a recoat every 6 months but for balustrades around a desk and stairs with really easy access it is no fuss. Once you get the hang of it, it's just wiping on with a rag. I don't use drip cloths as I've gotten good at avoiding and in any event it wipes easily off anything painted or sealed. It's not much more work than cleaning with a rag.
I researched heavily. I would rather have an easily maintainable surface requiring touchups each 6 months and where spots are easily repairable than gradual deterioration needing a major operation every 3-5 years. I would dislike as a homeowner a situation where a film finish is ooking bad but it is a huge cost to redo. The advantage of regular recoats is that it always looks as good as day 1. You could feather sand patches if needed.
An advantage is a fresh coat brings it up as good as new, with a lustrous finish. So before entertaining I can spruce up with a fresh coat.
This is after about 3 years baking in Qld sun all day, north facing zero shade from north:
Attachment 496642
Now a solution for bird poop...
Thanks C. We are scraping, and sanding back some window frames at the minute. Its a job both of us dislike and the varnish doesn't seem to last that long. I wonder how would CD50 go.
A photo of the seat finished with CD50 clear. Timber used (reused) was old celery top pine railway sleepers. After years of service on Tassies West Coast they had varying levels of rot and it took a fair bit of work get enough usable timber. The oil was applied a couple of weeks ago and already the seat is getting a weathered patina. Im happy with the result.