Pin holes/bubbles in NC lacquer

Herein a call for help from the brains trust.

Except for outdoor furniture I generally use NC lacquer on furniture and similar.

A problem I have occasionally is pin holes/bubbles in the finish, and I am looking for a solution. Right now I spray on 2-3 diluted coats of lacquer, sanding with wet and dry between coats. That usually does the trick, but it is time consuming.

Thinking about using something like a clear grain filler. I don't need a mirror finish, just to eliminate the pin holes and bubbles. If I want a mirror finish I use high gloss acid cure lacquer. I tried using a paste made from wet plastic wood. That helped, but too often I still got some pin holes and bubbles.

A web search found a lot of contradictory advice. Every technique has its supporters and detractors.

Any comments on the various grain fillers? Any other bright ideas to get rid of pin holes and bubbles gratefully accepted.

P.S. When I was a kid I watched a teacher French polish (I think that's the term) a jewellery box with shellac. He produced a beautiful finish, but it took 40 coats and a lot of sanding to achieve. Pass!

I've noticed that when I stir/shake the pot excessively is produces bubbles and these translate to the item being sprayed. The pin holes can be form air escaping from the pores of the timber. I'm no expert.

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Originally Posted by rod1949

I've noticed that when I stir/shake the pot excessively is produces bubbles and these translate to the item being sprayed. The pin holes can be form air escaping from the pores of the timber. I'm no expert.

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My issue is definitely air escaping from the pores. I stand there, watch the pin hole bubbling air, and weep.

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Originally Posted by John Samuel

My issue is definitely air escaping from the pores. I stand there, watch the pin hole bubbling air, and weep.

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Ive had the same issue myself John. I think the problem is caused by the wood getting warmer after coating and "off gassing". I have seen specular bubbling when varnishing in direct sunlight. My approach is to apply the finish later in the day when the ambient temperature has cooled somewhat and the timber is starting to cool. More likely to be sucking the finish back into the pores rather than pushing bubbles out. Keep the wood out of direct sunlight before and after coating.

I may have found the solution, a product called Solarez Grain sealer.

To have a look, follow this link. It looks very good. The Best Wood Grain Filler I Have Come Across - YouTube

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Originally Posted by tony_A

Ive had the same issue myself John. I think the problem is caused by the wood getting warmer after coating and "off gassing". I have seen specular bubbling when varnishing in direct sunlight. My approach is to apply the finish later in the day when the ambient temperature has cooled somewhat and the timber is starting to cool. More likely to be sucking the finish back into the pores rather than pushing bubbles out. Keep the wood out of direct sunlight before and after coating.

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Tried that, Tony. Still sometimes getting bubbles from open grained timber. The current job, a jewellery box made from NG Rosewood nearly drove me to drink because of the pin holes and bubbles. I never lacquer in direct sunlight and the recent jobs have been done in quite cool weather. Morning or afternoon, I get bubbles and pin holes.

I will likely order some Solarez. If it's half as good as it looks in the video it will do just fine.

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Originally Posted by John Samuel

nearly drove me to drink

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:drink2: :rotfl:

Ordered the Solarez. I'll let you know how it performs.

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Originally Posted by John Samuel

Ordered the Solarez. I'll let you know how it performs.

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Where did you order it from John.

John,

I use this: Aqua Coat | Eco-Friendly Water-Based Wood Finishes

It’s now the only sealer I use.

Regards,

Brian

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Originally Posted by John Samuel

Tried that, Tony. Still sometimes getting bubbles from open grained timber. The current job, a jewellery box made from NG Rosewood nearly drove me to drink because of the pin holes and bubbles. I never lacquer in direct sunlight and the recent jobs have been done in quite cool weather. Morning or afternoon, I get bubbles and pin holes.

I will likely order some Solarez. If it's half as good as it looks in the video it will do just fine.

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NG Rosewood is perhaps one of the most difficult woods to pore fill that I have encountered, though I haven't experienced the issues you mention. I've used both Mirotone and Stylwood NC fillers and have never really been happy with the excessive number of coats required, nor the sanding back to get a reasonable finish. I think the only way to deal with it is to use similar grain filling techniques to those that Luthiers use.

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Originally Posted by rod1949

Where did you order it from John.

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Ordered it from Amazon Aust, Rod.

There are at least two similar products produced by Solarez. One is a clear product (I think a sealer) and the one I ordered (I hope) is a white paste (sealer and filler). The white paste looks to easily be the superior product for difficult timbers like NG Rosewood, but I'll soon know.

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Originally Posted by Mobyturns

NG Rosewood is perhaps one of the most difficult woods to pore fill that I have encountered, though I haven't experienced the issues you mention. I've used both Mirotone and Stylwood NC fillers and have never really been happy with the excessive number of coats required, nor the sanding back to get a reasonable finish. I think the only way to deal with it is to use similar grain filling techniques to those that Luthiers use.

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That's exactly why I am trying the Solarez, Mobyturns. If is as good as it looks, I have solved the problem completely ... and it is a very fast solution. If it is not as good as it looks, but if it still successfully fills the big holes and prevents pin holes and bubbles with a single coat, I still have a winner. All will be revealed by Father Time.

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Originally Posted by homey

John,

I use this: Aqua Coat | Eco-Friendly Water-Based Wood Finishes

It’s now the only sealer I use.

Regards,

Brian

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Thanks, Brian. I looked at that product, but was seduced by the 3-5 minute cure time of the Solarez and by the fact that if I only wanted to fill the big holes to stop bubbles and pin holes a single coat should do the job. If the Solarez flops, I'll likely try the Aqua Coat.

When I am making furniture for kids (for example), I am happy for the grain to telegraph through the lacquer because putting a very smooth finish on kids furniture seems a bit like casting pearls before swine, especially after one of my grandsons decided to chew on the corner of the chest of drawers I made. In such a case, I only want to get rid of the pin holes and bubbles.

I refinished a 2400 X 1200 mm table for my daughter in law. It was finished in acid cure lacquer and hand rubbed to a mirror finish, and I was feeling well pleased with the result until I discovered that she hated it because it showed every speck of dust, every fingerprint and every kid mark. She asked me to cut it down to a 1650 X 1000 mm six seater, and specifically asked for a low sheen finish. Most women no longer want mirror finishes for the same reasons. In such a piece I don't care if the grain telegraphs through so long as the pin holes and bubbles don't appear.

In the rare cases when I want a mirror finish I use Mirotone's acid cure lacquer. It is high build, like poly, and a couple of coats usually does the job. Only used it a few times, but never have I had an issue with pinholes, perhaps because it is such a high build product. Mind you, I have never used it over NG Rosewood.

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Originally Posted by John Samuel

Ordered it from Amazon Aust, Rod.

There are at least two similar products produced by Solarez. One is a clear product (I think a sealer) and the one I ordered (I hope) is a white paste (sealer and filler). The white paste looks to easily be the superior product for difficult timbers like NG Rosewood, but I'll soon know.

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Thanks for that John. I have a lot of Jarrah timber that came out of my old 1957 built house. The timber has a lot of fine/small cracks in it and sometimes I can machine these out (depending on what I'm making) but the ones remaining I have been applying the lacquer and whilst its still wet applying the fine (like talcum powder) dust collected from the dust extractor and pressing in and scrapping over to fill. Its a long process.

Look forward to your opinion with Solarez.