How are Door jambs fixed to double brick?

Can anyone fill me in on how wooden door jambs and architraves are
fixed in a double brick home?

Cheers

I used liquid nails, rawl plugs and bolts to thread into the rawl plugs to achieve squareness and width...

Ie
1) in each vertical section I drilled 4 pilot holes thick enough to accept a bolt - 2 at the top, and 2 at the bottom
2) I then got a stainless bolt about 4 or inches long and 6mm thick and sharpened the end so it wold go into the rawl plug easily [note rawl plug should offer "tight" friction on the bolt]
3) I then drilled a thicker hole to accomodate the head of the bolt and a washer under the head. the pilot hole should be deep enough to allow puttying up to hide the bolt hole.
4) mark the positions of the holes into the brick frame by placing the vertical timber sections agaiosn the brick, then and drill a rawl plug hole with masonary bit to suit the rawl plug
5) once youve done this put the bolt with a washer under the head thru the pilot hole then attach a spring washer and a nut on the other side (this will lock the timber to move with the bolt as it screws in and out of the rawl plug.
6) Do this for all 4 bolts,
7) get a spirit level and screw adjust until its square in both planes.

repeat for other vertical and wedge the top horizontal timber section.

bobs yer uncle unless he wears a dress.

We recently did 53 jambs by constructing the opening to be 950mm wide in lieu of the usual 880-900. We then ripped 25mm plywood down to 130mm and fixed to both side of the opening using liquid nails, red spagetti (from Star not Ramset)and 75-100mm flat head nails.

Ensure that the edges of the plywood are plumb, Dont worry about the face being plumb at that point. It was then rendered flush to the plywood.

Then you simply fix the jamb and door as you would normally as the plywood takes the place of what would have been the timber frame.

This method makes it easy to nail in the architrave and provides an excellent finish.

Or use steel jambs and the brickie fits them

In the old days(well in my house)in door jambs 1-2"thick X 6"long pieces of wood were cut too tightly press fit(jamb fit!)between the inner and outer bricks then the door frame/jamb was simply nailed to this wood. They were spaced about every 3-400mm.
It cant go anywhere as the jamb is held against the brick by the upper and lower parts of the frame/jamb and the nails/wood only held it verticaly!(pretty beefy nails too)
And stuff like skirtings are done the same, every few bricks at floor level had the vertical mortar missing with bits of wood wedged in there... when nails are hammered in the skirting it spreads the wood bit like the way a dyna bolt works.

If in position to influence the choice of construction, I prefer Harry72's way although it can lead to nasty jobs in the future if damaged by rot, termites, etc.

But all too often it has been as simple as a masonry bit and 2 or three dynabolts positioned in either the mortar or a solid brick, depending on which material is the least friable. The same foam as used on the brickies expansion joints is used to fill the crack between jamb/bricks and compressed fairly tight. The header is simply nailed to the jamb stiles, 'cos it's a bitch to drill through lintels. :D Generally, to square 'em up I can get away with tightening all the dynabolts fully and then just backing 'em off, using a level. The centre moulding of the jamb hides the bolt-heads.

Hope yer bricky had a good day when he laid the 'ole. ;)

To add to Harry's description, the wood used for the plugs was fairly soft so that it would split easily (and expand) as it was nailed into. And you are nailing into the end grain. I've used Western Red Cedar when I've had to replace a wedge.

I also use WRC plugs, easily cut by hand with a utility knife, to fix skirting boards and picture rails and anything else that has to be fixed to the walls. The plugs grip in the old lime plaster and mortar, whereas plastic plugs tend to grind out a larger hole.

Yep it was softwood... Oregon