very old uncared for Jarrah floorboards

place that I am involved with has 4 large dormitory rooms. These were built by committee about 40 years ago and I'd wager never had any protection on them.
So now, structure wise in very good condition (mostly)
We do not have the funds nor the man-power to start banging old nails in, even if one could after all that time, so sanding is out of the question.
I can borrow a industrial floor scrubber, so my thinking is...
empty room,
use scrubber on floor (get rid of the bulk worst stains
vacuum
damp (only) mop floors to collect remnants.
then seal with......???? linseed/kero....??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tonyz

We do not have the funds nor the man-power to start banging old nails in, even if one could after all that time, so sanding is out of the question.
I can borrow a industrial floor scrubber, so my thinking is...
empty room,
use scrubber on floor (get rid of the bulk worst stains

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Right, so make some of the nail heads stand even more proud of the floor and introduce an agent to rust them a bit. :? Sometimes you just have to suck it up and do it the hard way. :C

:C was afraid someone would say that

You're just not using a big enough hammer.

I used a 1.5kg club hammer to drive the nails in on our 100+ year jarrah floor boards and joists before sanding. Had to do it in 1 hour sessions and then take a break. Had really sore wrists and arms by the end of teh job

You could also look at getting an electric Nail Punch. That's what the guy used who sanded and resealed the 25 year old Jarrah boards in the newer part of the house - I believe these can be hired.

You can also get pneumatic versions

Yeah, like the abattoir things... a punch.

FenceFurniture, many years ago, was advocating one of these Air Lockers for punching out nails in a pallet... AIR LOCKER ap700 professional Punch Nailer/Nail Remover (AP700 With DAP700 Piston Driver Assembly): Amazon.com.au: Home Improvement

Can these be turned down to "low" I wonder.... ?

Attachment 489896

Interestingly this ad was on last night (during tennis!) Wood Floor Refinishing

Maybe have someone else do the work :)

update on this
We have come to conclusion that trying to bang nails in is not possible. The jarrah floorboards are 40+ years old and bearers are???
Tried various methods and those nails aint moving.

So, ignore the sanding scrubbing and go straight to painting something on.
I mentioned elsewhere kero & linseed oil, opps turps and linseed oil 2 -1 this will seal the floorboards. Is there anything I can add at same time to give a little shine to the flooring?

On our Tung oiled floor boards we use a product called Gemini Satin Timber Floor Polish. Goes on with a mop. Not sure if it would go over the linseed/turps mix but as long as it’s soaked in I can’t see much difference to Tung oil?
They say to wait 5 to 7 days after the Tung oiling.

Is there a particular reason you want to use turps and linseed oil over Tung oil?
The tung oil gives a beautiful finish and is easily applied

I use equal parts of boiled linseed and turps for an oil finish, Tony, but always wipe it on with a rag or sheep skin applicator. Secret is not to put it on too thick or it will take ages to dry.

But I also get three different products by mixing equal quantities of Boiled linseed, turps and varnish or polyurethane:

OIL FINISH - boiled linseed and turps,

WIPE ON POLYURETHANE - turps and poly,

WIPE ON VARNISH - turps and varnish, and

DANISH OIL - boiled linseed, poly and turps.

All can give a high gloss with wet sanding with finer grits, but this is a lot of work for a floor. (For furniture I go up through the grits applying the finish with the sandpaper - 400, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000.) All these finishes effectively place the finish below the surface of the timber, rather than on the surface.

But for wooden floors, the vast majority are finished with polyurethane (estapol). Some prefer to dilute the first coat for penetration. Urethane is also good.

cheers guys, really appreciate all your knowledge.
my biggest concern is, considering the age and lack of any sealing/staining in all its history,
just how thirsty will theses boards be.

well a little knowledge and research goes along way.
Tung oil... mix or straight, although goof requires sanding and drying time between coats
Polyurethane requires only 1 sand and dries a lot quicker.

So thanks but Ive been thinking up the wrong path, now appears that Cabots will be the way to go BUT and still open to suggestions , help and further advice.

The floor finisher that did all our floor jobs uses a hybrid Tung oil / polyurethane product and it always looked mint
Don’t know what brand it was though