sand paper increments to remove scratches

So if I'm roughing out with 40 grade, do I go, 80-150-240? to get a scratch free finish?

I'm just working on pine models atm.

thanks in advance

skeg :wink:

Attachment 467361

40 might be a bit too coarse but you have the general idea, I would add 60, 120 and 180 grit in the mix.

Have a practice on a bit of scrap timber first; shape with 40 then use 60 grit to remove the scratches left by the 40. Then use 80 grit to remove the scratches left by the 60. And so on.

Don’t try to take shortcuts, use good quality abrasives and don’t try to make it last forever; when it’s blunt replace it. Forum sponsor The Sandpaper Man can supply all your needs for a fair price and he doesn’t sell crap.

My 2 cents worth,
When you change grits, change direction of your finishing strokes with each grade, not only will this method stop the scratches being rubbed into the wood, but you will be able to see when the previous grit grade has gone.

It is also good practice to brush or blow off the dust and grit between grits. You could be pushing around a few bits of the larger grit from the last time and making the scratching worse.
Regards
John

Try to always sand with the grain direction. Sandpapers cut the surface and the hard grains will cross-cut the wood fibers.
I agree: don't skip a grit grade. It's actually faster to move along than to attempt to erase a big gouge with a very fine sandpaper.

Wood carving tricks for glossy surfaces. Things to try:
1. After sanding, burnish the surface with a brown paper bag.
2. After one coat of finsh, let that set up good and hard.
Then use XXX coarse steel wool = the fibers are flat and a wad will cut
like a thousand chisels without taking off much of the finish.
The point is that you now have cut off all the stand-up, wicky-bits, a couple of finish coats will look water wet.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

40 might be a bit too coarse but you have the general idea, I would add 60, 120 and 180 grit in the mix.

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Pretty much :aro-u: