Wood Tool Handle "finish/treatment"

I had the pleasure of picking up some fine old hand saws on Saturday.
I need to spend some time bringing them up to speed and one of the things that I will do is to finish or treat the handles.
Would anyone be able to suggest an appropriate finish or oil for them. They will be users and not trophy pieces.

I am a cheap skate, and would probably use the same product on other wood handled tools. I am looking for something that will not leave my hands oily, something that is as natural as possible as well as traditional. Oh, and hard wearing so I don't need to continually maintain the finish.

For the record the saws are Disstons - no idea as to age - so thats why I want a traditional finish.

Thanks and any advice appreciated.

No idea about a traditional finish but wahta bout Shellac?

Dunno bout shellac, moisture from hands might affect it.
Poly would be a good hard wearing finish.

I don't know about traditional finishes, but I inherited my father's disston hand saw and the handle has a lacquer/varnish finish. The saw must be 60 years old. Then again my FIL's older disston had a black lacquer finish. His was pre-WW11.

How about U-Beaut Hard Shellac - durability of poly and look of shellac

I'm thinking that shellac might not wear well - and I sweat so it'll stain? Not really to keen on shellac in hard wear areas. Plus I don't wipe my hands enough when in the shed, so what will happen when turps, acetone, light machine oil.... gets on it?

Poly - sensible choice on all levels but traditional :(

Varnish - hmmmm...

I think Chesand has hit the nail on the head.

Thanks to all concerned, much appreciated, think I'll rough out a blank and give it a go.

However - any thoughts on a oil with a wax over it? Oil to seep in and protect, and the wax to seal it off? What type of oil?

Mix up some turps and linseed oil and just wipe it on. This works well for all tools handles which are going to be used, especially outside tools like shovels. It needs to be reapplied when necessary (every couple of years, depending on use).

Poly is a good choice, wears well......the more you use it the slicker it gets


Mark

I reckon Starr has called this one right, at least for tools like shovels, mattocks, etc. I spent a few years doing drainage and fence-posts and at the end of each week I simply lightly sanded any damaged sections and wiped 'em down with turps & linseed oil. About a 1:4 mix.

Contrary to what might be expected, it doesn't leave an oily residue and the handles become quite tactile over time. On the other hand, handles with finishes which "seal" the timber, (poly, shellac, paint or whatever) are not only the least pleasant to use but are also most likely to cause blisters after prolonged use. In our work-gangs, they were always the ones chosen last... or by "new boys." :D

I've carried this through to my hand-saw, hammer & turning tool handles without any problems and have no intention whatsoever of changing... I'd much rather just wipe down with oil when needed than to muck around with varnishes and their ilk.

I reckon an oil finish is good for all the reasons Skew has given. My personal preference is a couple of applications of Danish Oil - leave to soak in for a couple of days and then apply UBeaut Traditional Wax and buff. Feels silky smooth, no residue and entirely non-sticky in use.

Thanks all, again.
As usual the forum members have come to the fore.

I think I'll go with the suggestion by Starr - seems "traditional". I'll probably go with wax over the top - from our favourite supplier!

Again - thanks and it is greatly apprecited.

I remember something about Lanolin??? a while ago... (don't quote me on that though)

Having worked on shovels etc for a period of time I would go with the linseed, turps mix. It's kinder on the hands and it's my prefered finish for hammers as well. Hand saws I prefer an oil, anything to hand which is currently China Oil, if in constant use your hands will get a good polish up on wood. And that may apply for other tools as well:rolleyes: .

Years ago working with a fencing contracter crow bars shone like chrome and any light rust after a damp night or wet day would come off quickly with use. Linseed just works into the timber with the heat and friction of use and really keeps splinters at bay.

John