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Hi,
my front door frame is loose as a result of the door blueing shut and needing to be firmly closed after I used draft strips on it.
the door attaches to a double brick wall.
how best to fix is the question. I could drill through the frame and anchor it to the brick somehow. Or should I pull part or the frame apart?
all advice welcome. I’ll add a photo.
cheers
andrew
Important piece of info missing.
Is your house full brick or brick veneer?
From the first photo, I suspect full (cavity) brick
He does actually say that it's a 'double brick wall' Ray, so your suspicion would appear to be correct. Isn't it annoying when we read things and miss the salient points, sure bugs me when I do it. :~Quote:
Originally Posted by rwbuild
Hi guys, yep it’s what I know as double brick. Brick inside and out with a space between.
Cheers.
Guilty as charged :-
Ok, the problem is the actual jamb is held in place by galvanised frame ties which are fixed to the jamb with minimum 2 galvanised clouts and bedded in the brick joint as the wall is built. The frame tie is not in the centre of the brick (end) but biased to the cavity side and 99% sure it is anchored to the internal brickwork, not the external. The slamming of the door over a period of time frets away at the mortar joint, becomes loose and you have your result. I also suspect that the photos indicate the house bay have been built pre 1960's and its a good possibility that you have a terrazzo threshold and the jamb is dowelled into it (this is an assumption but not always the case) and great care has to be exercised in removing the jamb if this is the case.
The bricks are dry press bricks as opposed to extruded and are prone to flaking off large pieces if any anchor is drilled into them close to an edge on the end of the brick.
To rectify your problem, remove door and jamb. Cut 8 pair of folding wedges (4 pair each side top/bottom then equal spaced) approx 150 long apply liquid nails or araldite to the mating faces and faces to brick, gently tap wedges together until firm in the cavity, wait approx 2 hrs, cut off excess wedge flush with opening, reinstall jamb and screw (DO NOT NAIL)jamb to wedges. See attached PDF
Ok thanks heaps. Sounds like a bit of a mission. Any general tips in regard to removing the jamb? Once I’ve done that I understand the principle behind establishing a solid base to screw to (is the wedges).
Thanks again, I’ll tackle it when I have a full day!
The hardest part is getting the jamb to release from the embedded ties.
Carefully remove the quad moulding externally ( score the paint junction between the jamb and the quad with a utility knife first, it will avoid the quad splitting on the edge), this will then allow you to very gently prise the jamb away from the brickwork just enough to get a hacksaw blade or better still a reciprocating metal cutting saw blade in to either cut the frame tie or if there is a gap between it and the jamb, cut the clouts.
When you refit the jamb, it won't hurt to run a bead of Sikaflex on the 2 edges of the jamb that sits against the brickwork. https://www.bunnings.com.au/sika-310...alant_p1213195