Antique gilt mirror. Not timber but would like ideas please if possible

Hi all

I am looking at buying an antique Victorian gilt convex mirror that needs work. I contacted mirror restoration people who said to remove the gold paint and restore some of the plaster work that was broken when the eagle was removed would cost thousands... more than what the mirror was worth.

Nevertheless, it could be a project I could do, as the price of the mirror isnt too great so if I mess it up, I havent wasted a huge amount. But I need guidance.

Does anyone have any experience in gesso and gilt restoration, and or knowledge they would be able to provide?

Thanks

I can't help you, but I know that Utube is a great resource for all things, and in all likelyhood what you are after. :rolleyes:

Thanks cava. I have searched it on the net and noted several ways of restoring it, so maybe I should take the plunge and see what happens.

Photos would help. Gilding with gold leaf is "interesting" as the leaf is so thin that it curls around and does all sorts of strange things. Be careful of static as it makes life difficult. Also be careful of the size that you use, there are some nasty synthetic sizes that smell pretty bad. One great aspect of doing your own golding is that real 24 ct gold lef is so inexpensive on eBay - don't buy the fake gold stuff.

Good luck.

David

Thanks Xanthorrhoeas. Attachment 446585Attachment 446586Attachment 446587Attachment 446588Attachment 446589 The previous owner has painted areas with gold coloured paint, and this should be removed, plus repairs to some plaster work is required. I have never undertaken this work before, but because the mirror is cheap enough, I am willing to give it a go, but would like advice if possible. I found some helpful sites that give instructions, and after purchasing some essential tools, will follow them, to the best of my ability, hopefully I can do the mirror justice. Any ideas you have are welcome.

Sounds like an interesting project, Newbie57. I see this post is a few months old so if I'm telling you stuff you've already found out, my apologies, I just saw your post today.

Gold leaf, as noted already, will twist and curl and land where you don't want it so get yourself a gilder's tip. This is a little flat brush that you use to pick up and place the leaf where you want it. To cause the gold leaf to cling to the bristles of the gilder's tip first lightly brush it through your hair, (WITHOUT BRYLCREAM!. Dunno what you do if you're bald.) Then gently touch it to the gold leaf square and lift up cleanly. Place the leaf where you want it and it will immediately cling to the size.

There are two theories about why this works. 1 the oil in your hair provides just enough tack for the leaf to temporarily adhere and 2, static electricity caused by rubbing the tip on your hair causes the leaf to cling to the tip.

You've already been given good advice about the size. Genuine size is rabbit's skin glue or gelatin and water. Here's a link with some good information about size, bole etc.:
https://letterheadsignsupply.com/gold-size

There are others you can use but I've only used rabbit's skin glue and gelatin and water. The gelatin can be obtained from a grocery store or by using empty medicine gel caps, available from the pharmacy and heated in a small amount of water till they dissolve. The latter I have used.

The link above gives good information about bole as well.If you are going to make your restoration as authentic as possible have fun learning about the process. It's quite fascinating. I do admit to using acrylic paint to achieve the colour of genuine bole. If you don't want to or are uncomfortable mixing a suitable bole red, the Dulux colour Charred Clay, in a matte finish (low sheen?) is a fair approximation. One test pot (probably a lifetime supply) will cost about 6.00.

If you have the piece which has become detached and need to make a duplicate, model it in clay then cast it in plaster. That's a whole other adventure that you'll find explained in detail on the 'net, I'm sure.

If I can help, ask here or PM me. The process is too complex to detail here and you may already have finished it. If you've already finished may we see a photo, please?:)

Afterthought: Handle the gold leaf with utmost care. Leave the interleaved sheet in place under the gold leaf while you gently cut it with a knife. Proctect the leaf by using one of the interleaves between your fingers and the gold leaf.

Thanks Cleokitty. I have finished the mirror. I contacted a master gilder who gave me some invaluable advice, especially on the gold glue and transfer gold to use.

I managed to remove the loose gesso and used a wood glue which I injected into the unstable side to hold it together. I then used a timber filler to patch it.

I used a molding material to make a copy of the ribbon on the sides and using the filler I created a new replacement. Attaching it was a struggle because the part I was repairing was water damaged and had expanded, so I needed to press together the new plaster piece with the sides to try and create the shape. Once it was attached and dry, I sanded for many many hours to get the repair to look like the rest of it, and whilst it isnt perfect, I am reasonably happy with my efforts. I used yellow ochre and red oxide acrylic paint that matched the existing colour to paint the areas that I filled before I coated with turps based gold glue. Once just tacky I used transfer gold leaf. It was very easy to use and I didnt waste any of it. To finish, I put a drop each of green and brown paint into a little water and 'painted' over the new gold to tone it down a little.

Attachment 450239 Attachment 450240

Thank you to all for their advice.

Looks great, Newbie 57. Congratulations. It looks very professional and thanks for the photos and description of the process you used.

Next project :2tsup: ?