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I am after some tips on enclosing the space above the upper kitchen cupboard (is this area called a bulkhead?). How do they attach the gyprock to cupboards? I imagine there must be some 90 degree bracket screwed to the tops of the cupboards and then somehow gyprock is then attached to these brackets???
Any tips or pics would be most helpful :)
If this is what you are after, I just fitted a 25mm X 50mm battern along the top of the units set back the thickness of the plaster board (plus a bit for the plaster skimming) and secured the platerboard with bugle headed plaster board screws.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hybrid
That is exactly what I am talking about. Well that sounds relatively simple (even for me :p )
Thanks for the tip!
You can even use MDF as it is easyer to get in place and screw, just make sure you get your framing right.
? Plasterboard if skimmed does not have to fit accurately in fact small gaps are desirable to increase adhesion and provide continuity of structure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaza
MDF will always result in cracks reappearing at joins due to dissimilar expansion if skimmed with plaster. If however it is to be finished by some other method, papering over for instance, I see no problem other than having to have much closer fitting tolerances.
Not criticizing the MDF suggestion, It may well be an easier option in this case, just making observations on it’s use.
there are a range of methods for doing this nicely - let me know what height your ceilings are and what general style your home and kitchen is and I will dig out some pics for you to use as reference.
have fun
I would not skim the MDf with plaster i would just no more gap the joins and bog any butt joins up.
i might chip in here mate as i do this for a living,
simply get some pyne board 16 or 18mm get i about 100 - 150mm wider than the cupboard to ceiling gap. measure the smallest size, if it's only about 10 -20 mm difference thats fine. cut the board to that size and use the bit thats left for the 'cleat'.
screw the cleat to the top of the unit, if you have room or have a cool festool screw gun like me,lol. screw the face plate to the cleat and just support the joints with a spare piece on the back, screwed to both. fix your gyproc to that with screws very top (to be covered by cornice) and at the bottom (less visable) fix your cornice to that, and when the cornice cement goes off, it will be solid.
make a decent job of scribing round the old cornice your probably butting up against to save hassle later when you fill the screw holes or skim the job, and in your set up, set it out so that finish of the gyproc is about 3mm back from the carcase, so you can 'no more gaps' it.
may sound a bit ruff, but it works well and looks good when finished.