DIY wax/oil finish

Yesterday I purchased some https://www.bunnings.com.au/feast-wa...e-wax_p1565758 to apply to picture frames I made. I normally use this 2 pack polyurethane from ER-LAC but I needed the frames finish ASAP and figured that wax based finish would be the fastest. Turns out I really like it. It adds very little colour to the timber and keeps a very natural look. Its not shiny (I didnt buff much though) and very smooth.

Then I thought, 40 bucks is a rip off and thought I should try make a similar product. Watched a few youtube videos and I see quite a few people are using beeswax + a blend of whatever oil they like to make their own finish. From what I understand, bees wax is not as durable - but it will only be used on picture frames and maybe clocks when I start to try and make them.

Does anyone do this? Would love to know your recipe.

Im thinking I will use boiled linseed oil and some gum turpentine to thin it out:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/diggers-...ntine_p1560994
https://www.bunnings.com.au/diggers-...d-oil_p1670039

Anyone have thoughts or advice for a more natural looking finish?

I used to use an equal part mixture of beeswax, pine tree turps and linseed oil on gun stocks. Had to heat it up to mix it and also heated it and the wood when applying to ensure that it soaked in well to waterproof the timber. The resultant wax coating is quite soft and only needed a quick hand buff to refresh it.

For a more durable mixture I would now use carnauba wax but I feel that it won't refresh as easily.

What is pine tree turps like? Is it similar to gum tree turps? (and is this similar to mineral turps?)

Usually, how many coats do you do? How long do you wait between coats? This feast western stuff is apply, wait 15min, buff. Super convenient. I did some reading and apparently linseed oil takes a while to set...

Where do you buy carnauba wax from?

Late last year our benevolent dictator was disposing of some carnauba wax.

Never compared pine tree turps to the others just remember the strong pine odour. Was trying to use all natural ingredients and mineral turps could be anything.

I applied many coats, usually one a day, especially in summer when I would leave the wood out in the hot sun. When it stopped soaking in I decided that it was enough. Not a convenient system but the results were very good on gun stocks, as apart from waterproofing it seemed to harden the wood.

Making finishing products can be done, SAFELY, if you know what you are doing. If you don't know what you are doing, heating turpentine and wax, both volatile substances can be fraught with danger. You know, like a house burning down. How you heat it is VERY important knowledge to be familiar with.

Be safe
Cheers
Bevan