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Was trying to sort this out myself.
But I'm out of my depth on how to finish this 2x4 treated pine bench.
Liquid Nails together with 65 mm brad nails to keep in place while drying.
sanded down with decent sized gaps.
Is there a cheaper solution to fill the gaps before sanding, staining and sealing?
Many thanks in advance.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f198/e...ghlight=expoxy
Elsewhere ...
"...epoxy resin like Boatcote or WEST thickened with the filler that they each sell to the consistency of putty..."
Barry, Barry, Barry
we need some context and pictures before we attempt to answer your question.
Is it a work bench? a bench for the potting shed? a bench seat for the garden? a work table for somewhere? a bench for inside the house?
Thanks to all interested parties.
Much appreciated.
Garden Bench Exposed to the weather. 24 x 7
I plan on using a heavy duty tarp. But don't tell my lady. As she doesn't like the look.
Ripped the curved seat and crosscut the sides at angle to ease the sanding.
I had clamps and weights on it for 6 days to find there was more separation than I expected.
And found the liquid nails squeeze out to still be soft to the touch.
Am I looking at another $150+ to weather proof this?
Thanks in advance.
P.S.
Is there a reason I STILL CAN'T select, upload and insert more that one photo at a time?
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Barry, I think you might be best advised to rip it apart and start again.
From here, it looks as though each piece of 4 x 2 is a different thickness -- which should be expected unless you allowed the material to dry fully and dressed it before use.
I'm thinking that your design might be better with DESIGNED gap of 4 to 5 mm between adjacent bits of 4 x 2.
Epoxy filler will probably work, but I'm thinking you'll need more than $150 worth
Ok thanks anyway.
Pines have very well developed resin ducts in the wood.
The duct is a hollow tube of cells, the resin is a complex of very flammable turpenoids and so on.
Heated in a campfire, they do literally explode.
Not your problem.
Instead, outdoors with the heat of your sunshine, some of those turpenoids will begin to vaporize
and that expanding gas will push resins out of the ducts - the wood will sweat pine pitch.
This will push right through just about any finish. That is no fun to sit on or in even for the stained clothing.
Besides a finish, you'll need some sort of sacrificial and temporary covering.
Thanks for the verbose reply.
Treated pine is heat and pressure treated.
We do plan on using seat cushions.
What else would you suggest?
I use a desktop and a netbook. I let everything pretty much update automatically. Accessing the Forum from the desktop allows me to upload multiple pictures at a time. The netbook only allows me to choose and upload one pic at a time.Quote:
Originally Posted by barrysumpter
I haven't investigated it but I think it might have something to do with which Flash Player version is installed. It's either that or the Java version, or the desktop screen size......
Not a thing. Put it out in the sun and watch what it does.
Shade temps at my house this year have swung from a top of +47 to a low of -33C.
Outdoor wood in the sun gets Sikkens Cetol finish for durability.
Thanks Franklin,
I didn't want to have to break out a can of System Testing yet again.
Robson,
Where do you live? On Crematoria?
I'll have a look for Sikkens Cetol.
The Wood Whisperer built an outdoor table and benches.
A year later he sanded down and used Epoxy Resin I believe.
But he was adamant about it not being cheap.
Thats Bear-ry! Bear-ry! Bear-ry!Quote:
Originally Posted by ian
Wrong glue for a start!
In the right-hand corner of my posts, it still reads McBride, BC. A little mountain village of 650.
We have no more than 2m snow piled along the street. I grow grapes and do wood carving.
PhD Botany/Wood Science/LaTrobe.
Sikkens Cetol is very expensive and ultra stinky.
But to protect a $30,000,000 log home, I suppose I could over look the cost.