Base cabinet job.

Hi guy, I am building a display cabinet with aluminium extrusion and I need a melamine base cabinet with 4 doors. I have a budget of $350.00. If you're interested please contact me. Prerequisite; experience, and most importantly -- proud of your workmanship.

Location: From Penrith to Parramatta


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hinge details?
base and top size?
kick board depth?
is there an angle involved, and if so what is it?
shelves in the cabinets?
estimated weight of the aluminium portion and it's contents?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jcreality

I have a budget of $350

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Good luck

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jcreality

Hi guy, I am building a display cabinet with aluminium extrusion and I need a melamine base cabinet with 4 doors. I have a budget of $350.00.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by elanjacobs

Good luck

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out of interest, is the OP's design even build-able? No tops, no floor clearance for the doors, not at all clear how the Al extrusion cabinet attaches to the base unit. Doors 3 & 4 would appear to require unusual (= expensive) hinges, just to list a few "uncertainties"

comments?

Tops are technically not required if the top section has a solid bottom as you could fix the uprights with "figure-8" connectors, but would be highly recommended, even just a rail front and back.
Kicker/plinth also technically not needed if on a hard floor, again, highly recommended for clearance.
You'd make it as 2 boxes with 2 doors each, so door 3 is just a normal overlay hinge with an angle restrictor so it doesn't crash into the carcass next to it, door 4 doesn't appear to have a carcass side to hang on so....:? The hinge itself is no problem, Blum (and I'm sure most major manufacturers) make a variety of angled hinges and mounting plate spacers. Or you'd just add an 80mm deep upright for a normal overlay hinge.

$200 for board, edging and hinges, all you need is someone who can cut, edge and assemble in 3 hours or who doesn't mind working for free.

Of course, that's with exposed screw heads in the outside; if you want concealed pin-and-cam there's $50 for 100 of those plus 1-2 hours to set-out and drill.

I know what I'd be saying to $350 and I'm not allowed to type it here.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by elanjacobs

Tops are technically not required if the top section has a solid bottom as you could fix the uprights with "figure-8" connectors, but would be highly recommended, even just a rail front and back.
Kicker/plinth also technically not needed if on a hard floor, again, highly recommended for clearance.
You'd make it as 2 boxes with 2 doors each, so door 3 is just a normal overlay hinge with an angle restrictor so it doesn't crash into the carcass next to it, door 4 doesn't appear to have a carcass side to hang on so....:? The hinge itself is no problem, Blum (and I'm sure most major manufacturers) make a variety of angled hinges and mounting plate spacers. Or you'd just add an 80mm deep upright for a normal overlay hinge.

$200 for board, edging and hinges, all you need is someone who can cut, edge and assemble in 3 hours or who doesn't mind working for free.

Of course, that's with exposed screw heads in the outside; if you want concealed pin-and-cam there's $50 for 100 of those plus 1-2 hours to set-out and drill.

I know what I'd be saying to $350 and I'm not allowed to type it here.

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that's what I thought you meant by your earlier "good luck"

Door 4 appears to hang off a side angled at about 125 degrees.
If I were to take the job on, the first few billable hours would be expended on redrawing the OP's design -- for starters the doors, as specified, have zero clearance between each other or the floor

I would read it as a concept drawing. Similar to what an Architect would supply. A working drawing would be required, either by client or manufacturer. As the budget is limited to $350 all prelims would need to be furnished by client. Even then, the first two numbers need to be reversed.