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What are people's thoughts on Osmo finishes? I see many timber suppliers only stock this stuff, particularly PolyX. Its an oil/wax blend and apparently really easy to maintain - put rub on another layer if its starting to wear. People are claiming that its as strong as polyurethane - as its used on flooring. Any thoughts?
(it does look good, but im just not sure if it protects as well as poly in terms of wear and things like putting a coffee on the table)
I like it personally. Use as directed though. I see a lot of people apply and buff off all excess but I think it's best to apply a slightly thicker coat using the osmo roller (you get good at applying without leaving any lines) or brush and after at least 24 hrs I light sand and then rub on a final coat for a very smooth finish. Even in porous timbers i've had good results with it.
I don't think of it as a replacement to standard poly or anything like that. Just an alternative. Both have their perks. For example, client wanted a table as close to 'natural' looking as possible. Used White oak and the Osmo Polyx "raw" for a finish that looks as if the timber is untreated. I ran tests after my application method with red wine on a sample piece for a few minutes then cleaned off with a damp cloth. No marks left on the timber. Good enough for me! Time will tell how it goes with the 'yellowing' which I am trying to avoid on this piece.
I've also used the satin on walnut, maple, QLD walnut, rosewood, oak, vic blackwood, tas blackwood, and like the finish it leaves on all of them. Maple dining table has no yellowing after 1 year in a sun lit room.
I'm a fan. Follow the instructions. A relatively expensive product apparently but it covers a much larger area than most finishes. Apply thinly and evenly. I have left overproof rum on a piece overnight. Wipe off in the morning, no mark. Do not sand higher than 240 grit, 180 is adequate for most applications. Wittles product is similar though I have not used it. Buy a small tin and use it. In Qld it does not like being on shelf sitting for weeks. Refrigeration retards " going off in the can". Best just use it though.
Cheers
Do you think there is any downside to applying Osmo PolyX to wood that has been sanded to 320?
The reason I ask is because I have already sanded a piece of Redgum to 320, I was going to finish with an oil but now I'm thinking I'll give Osmo a go. I've already done a test on the backside which was sanded to 180 and I'm happy with it.
Would going over the sanded front side with 180grit have the same effect as sanding to 180grit in the first place? Never considered back sanding before.
Dunno, Prolly not, try and find out. I'd reckon the only thing I would do differently is I would wipe off and I would prolly allow for three coats.
I'm no expert. Different people have different methods.
Osmo instructions are not to sand to too fine a grit as it stops the wood from being able to absorb the finish. If you rough it up with 180 it should work fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Twist
I've been looking at the Osmo Poly-X too for some wooden drink coasters, and although it's insanely expensive (although what in OZ isn't?), if it does the job I don't really mind terribly, but it seems descriptively very similar to Cabots Danish Oil, a mix of solvents, polyurethane, and oils. Has anyone found it gives a similar finish to Cabots, or is it superior to it?
I'm after an oil look finish with a hard wearing surface, that can take the heat of coffee cups and the occasional spill without going white, and from the blurb it seems it might fit the bill?
cheers, Ian
Something a little more hard wearing such as the osmo Top oil would be more suitable. Finish is similar to that of the Osmo Polyx in my opinion no comparison to danish oil in finish. A lot less of a 'yellow' finish. Not as thick of a finish either.
That Osmo Top Oil looks good thanks, it would be a fair assumption if it's designed for benchtops it should protect well hopefully.
Does Osmo stuff go funny from air exposure like Cabots Danish Oil and other similar ones, or does it last well in the tin without turning to gel or crap?
cheers, Ian
Ian,
PolyX is nothing like Cabots Danish Oil. No polyurethane, it’s mainly a wax and oil blend. I use it a bit for boxes. I apply a thinnish coat, wait 20 minutes (less if the weather is warm), wipe off before it becomes sticky. Leave overnight, repeat the next day.
Peter Parfitt (new Brit Workshop) in the UK has made a couple of YouTube videos about this stuff. Worth a look.
I used some today. Looks like molten wax in the tin, quite thick, but only apply thinly. Seems to last well in the tin.
Here’s a walnut box finished with PolyX. This finish has been on the box for about a year:
Attachment 431632
This finish is very popular with furniture makers (and boxmakers) in the UK.
Cheers,
Brian
I haven't left too much Osmo around to turn in the can but a good spray of Bloxygen or the cheaper version, air in a can, will stop that. I apply Osmo as per instructions. Using Osmo roller. More durable finish in my opinion. Doesn't have to be a thick coat though.
Roller is the way to go with most things. The key is a THIN thorough coat. Raking light and looking from a low angle helps when looking for dry patches. If you are getting dry patches then don't preroll so much, allow the roller to be slightly wetter. Start with less finish and work up to where you need to be would be my advice. And experiment, document and count. All these things are useful.
Cheers
Bevan
Anyone ever try bunnings roller instead of the osmo one?
https://www.bunnings.com.au/uni-pro-...-pack_p1560238
I found the finish to be a little bit 'lumpy' in comparison and the fibers fell out a lot easier from my experience.
Thanks. Have you tried any other non-osmo branded microfibre rollers?
They seem to be over priced