Trailer repair.

Decided it is time to some substantial repairs to my 6x4 box trailer.

I've had the thing for over twenty years and bought it second hand. I has done sterling
service but but ron and rear tailgates are in need of replacement as well as the floor.

The thing is built with a frame of 50x50x5mm angle and is quite heavey. I have had to
grind and sand away some rust and have since treated it with Rust Guard. Next step
is to replace the floor. Thought I would get away with 90x19 treated pine with 100 mm
gaps between boards and screw a piece of aluminium checker plate on top. Don't think
this is such a good idea so another trip to the rabbit hutch!!

New tail gates and chains to be done by local trailer maker.

Before you go to far with it, make sure the drawbar isn't bent, as it can pull the trailer out of square. Why not put the ali chequer plate straight on the frame, using a product called Sikaflex, a urethane adhesive,which will stick to anything. Make sure there is a minimum of about a matchstick thickness after laying it down.
Kryn

Checker plate is only very thin so anchoring straight to the frame is not an option, but thanks for the suggestion.

Trailer is very square, 50x50x5mm angle is strong stuff!! The tray/box is a heavier gauge metal also so things have stayed
square. Trailer is quite heavy as a result of all the heavier gauge metal used.

Gday Artme.Built my 7 x 4 trailer some 15 or more years ago. 50 x 50 x 2.5 frame/75 x 50 A frame.Three intermediate bearers spaced equal within the frame.Ran strips of 2mm thick rubber over the frame then used button head tek screws to anchor the 2.5mm thick ali checker sheet down.Carried tons (literally) over the years.Has never shown any indication of warp or lifting.(it rolls on hillman 9 leaf springs & torana rims) Best trailer i ever built. gordo

In the Trailers Section - Page 2/6 down started by Gary Edwards > 2002 Toyota Hilux Tub Trailer < you`ll see pics of the 7x4 & a 5x5.5 Courier tub of mine. And next in 7th down,my old Landrover tub trailer.

Can I urge you do the following considering trailers are the easiest thing to steal.

Somewhere on the trailer, usually around the chassis and somewhere not in view weld YOUR drivers licence number then take several photos of closeup and further away to prove where the welding is.Keep these photos somewhere very safe. Paint over this as well, make make sure it can be identified.

The reason...... in an old neighbourhood newsletter I read pf a guy in Salisbury had a car trailer stolen from his front yard, 3 years later he spied it although it had different plates on, quietly followed to where it 'now' lived and reported to police. Because of above welding info they decided to investigate and 'new' owner got stroppy so is was confiscated and although no sign of licence number until it was xrayed then the heat generated from welding showed through and original owner got it back.
Even pedal bikes have a traceable number on them trailers have nothing, its so easy to repaint, register as home made trailer and get new plates.... This is the case in SA dont know what the regs are elsewhere.

Well, I measured the angle today and it is 63x63x8+mm - i gues 21/2x21/2x3/8!!

No wonder the bloody thing is so heavy!!

The ali sheet at 2mm sounds good but I already have other material so I will stick to that.

Before the Brexit SWMBO was even talking of a NEW trailer!!!!:oo: I think she must have
been having a dizzy spell!!!:D

Brexit actually knocked the savings down a bit and there are other things I Would rather spend
my money on than a new trailer.

New front and back gates plus new chains will set me back $350 so that's not too bad.

Gday Artme. Quote: [No wonder the bloody thing is so heavy!!] - You could fit a thicknesser on that trailer without any trouble - Read: steam roller!! gordo

If your new tailgate is a fold-down ramp, it will probably have one-sided hinges to attach to the frame; i.e. pins on one element and barrels on the other. Most trailer makers make the pins exactly equal, and attaching it is a two-man job. Grind about 1/4"/5mm off one pin to make attachment a one-man job. Engage the longer pin in its barrel, and swing the other into the gap you just made; then engage it.

Cheers,
Joe

Or just offset one pin.

Thanks Joe, was aware of this as this is the type of hinge I have at present.

As both are severely rusted i am having new ones to go with the new gates.
Much better type that can be greased!!