When you say "a heap of the non polymerised stuff" how much do you actually have?
I've found a source which suggests that coverage is about 9 sq.m per litre, so for your 140 sq.m floor your "heaps" would need to be about 16 litres just for the first coat.
some application instructions from https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/...ebunking-myths
raise the grain before you apply tung oil. Raise the grain with a rag soaked in warm water, sand, and then begin.
Bob Flexner says that applying oil is simple, “wipe, wait, sand, repeat.” Apply the oil liberally with a soft cloth or brush and then wipe it off like you mean it. Check after an hour or two, and if extra oil has beaded on the surface, wipe it away.
Don’t forget that rags used to apply drying oils are highly combustible. When you’re finished with your rag, hang it outside to dry. Be careful disposing of them.
When using pure tung oil, you need several coats. It’s very important that you thin each coat with the first coat being the thinnest (I recommend 70 percent solvent). Each successive coat should be thicker (less thinned), and the last coat must be the thickest. Your thinner needs to be an organic solvent, one that is carbon based like turpentine, mineral spirits or the newfangled “citrus solvent”.
Every layer except the last must be sanded, so the next layer of tung oil will bond to the previous layer. Three hundred and twenty-grit sandpaper creates the “tooth” that grips the next layer. When sanding between coats, you have to go lightly or you will suddenly sand through one or more previous coats and you will have dreaded witness lines.
Getting good results requires using the right techniques and not being in a hurry. I would allow at least a week between coats, although I have heard of people doing it faster with good results. There are many other finishes better suited to a tight schedule; varnishes, lacquers, and even BLO. However, if you want to use oil, and you have some time to devote to the finish, pure tung oil is in a class by itself. There is no other drying oil that has the same resistance to water, mold, bacteria, yellowing, darkening, but offers strength and flexibility.
This lot Pure Tung Oil Wood Finish & Protection recommend a minimum of 6 coats
The surface should be dusted to remove all loose particles. For better penetration the oil should be thinned one to one with natural Citrus Solvent. Using the Pure Tung Oil straight from the bottle would only be for the most thirsty surfaces like old weathered wood, 100 year old wood floors that were never finished or concrete. For the majority of all projects you will thin 50% with thinners for the entire finishing process. The first coat of thinned material should be a liberal one. Apply with a natural bristle brush or sponge brush. Allow this application to sit for a minimum of 40 minutes so the oil can soak in. When it soaks into the wood, apply another coat immediately. Continue to apply coats, one after another, until wood is saturated and stays glossy for a minimum of 40 minutes but can be 1½ hours. If eighty percent of area stays glossy the wood cells are saturated. Then wipe down the surface with clean rag material. Continue to check for any seeping in the next few hours, and rub this off as well. Let soak in completely over night between applications. Do not allow standing oil on the surface overnight. Any standing or puddles oil should be wiped away with clean rags. Hang oil soaked rags up separately to dry. For woods with very dense pores like Teak wood (and possibly Ironbark), thin with two parts Citrus Solvent to one part oil will help it absorb better for every coat. Pure Tung Oil will take 7 to 10 days for a minimum cure and 15 to 30 days for a full cure.
Tung oil can be applied pure to very porous surfaces or with Citrus Solvent added if a non-toxic finish is required. Thinners can accelerate the drying process and greatly improve the penetration by cutting the first coat of oil with Citrus Solvent, mineral spirits or turpentine by 50%. Do not use the “Green” thinners now being sold. They contain water and will not mix with the oil.
The number of coats of oil to be applied will be determined by the intended use of the piece. Surfaces that receive moderate to heavy use or handling could need up to six coats for maximum protection, plus a light renewal coats a couple of times a year. Apply till the surface reaches the saturation point. This will be evident as the surface will not absorb more oil. Renewal and building coats are quickly applied with cheese cloth, a lint free cloths (old bed sheets work well). This process will give you a surface that will stand up to vigorous use and spills: water will bead on the surface. Do not get hung up on the number of coats, let the wood tell you when it has reached its maximum saturation. Pure Tung Oil will be in the wood up to the surface not on the wood like varnish or Poly urethane top coat.
I don't suggest you try polmerising the oil yourself, because the process involves heating the oil to about 260°C in an oxygen free environment. A process that is probably not covered by your home insurance.
