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Has anyone ever tried to retrofit existing windows into double glazed. I know some of the real d/g have gas between the glass, but Im sure you would get the same benefits without. I've looked at my windows and doors and reckon it could be done,
some of the things I can think of to look out for,
1. ensure inside of glass is spotless.
2. ensure they are properley sealed to avoid moisture build up.
3. this is where everyone else comes in.
Have a look at this link. I didn't read it but it looks like the sort of thing you are after. I found it by doing a google on "diy double glazing"
http://www.ata.org.au/articles/84doubleglazing.pdf
The carpenter at my last job used to knock up offices for the bosses inside the factory, and he made all of his own double glazed windows. The only thing he did out of the ordinary was to pour in moisture absorbing crystals before adding the last pane.
Go for it!
Australia Owner Builder magazine did a simpler article about 2 years ago. I have it filed away... about 800 K's away!
but check out their web site or current mag I think has a list of rtheir back issuses.Tonto
The experience with rubber or silicone seals in the early D/G units in North America wa that eventually the seals break down and the expensive argon gas went away to be replaced with moist air which then led to condensation problems anyway.
Your idea of using desicant between the panes would be better, but how big of an air gap are you planning? The gaps in production windows are only about 2mm.
Greg
I have made my own windows with double glazing, I bought the double glazed inserts and put them into my own timber frames.
Using a dessicant is standard in all double glazed windows, it is inside the aluminium spacer that separates the two panes of glass. The spacer has perforations open to the airspace between the panes.
I bought the double glazed inserts from Moen Glass in Bayswater, Melbourne.
Their price is very reasonable, I found that their price for a complete double glazed unit (two panes of glass, spacer, seal) was cheaper than I could buy a single pane of glass from the local glazier.
I got prices form several other suppliers and they were generally much more expensive, Pilkingtons was about four times the price.
Before starting I got quotes of well over $20,000 for windows including three sets of french doors. I made them for about $5000, the double glazed inserts cost a bit over $2000 including delivery about four hours drive away, timber about $1500 and the balance was hinges, winders, locks, knobs and power tools to make them. They came out great, I was not a very experienced woodworker and I must say I am pretty proud of them.
Give it a go.
Chris.
Hi Chris,
I'd love to see some photos if you've got any, and some construction details if you're inclined. I've been toying with the idea of doing some doors and windows, but am thinking that I need to get a spindle moulder, a power feed and some tooling first. Would love to read more about how you went about it !
Cheers,
Justin.
That sounds great Chris, I too would love to see some pics, have you got the phone number. What is the thickness of the glass overall as I already have frames and want to know if they will fit inside. Thanks
Moens phone number is in the phone book...03 9728 3799
They make up thicknesses to suit, minimum air gap is 6mm and two sheets of 3mm glass gives 12mm total minimum. Bigger air gap is better.
If the rebate in your windows isn't enough, you might be able to rout out a deeper rebate, or there might be some way to fit the inserts and fit a moulding around the edge to cover where the glazing sticks out. Or you could make up new timber sash frames.
I didn't take photos during construction of the windows but they are pretty basic, I looked at casement windows on display at building display centre and other retailers so see how they go together, decided mortise and tenon was beyond me so I just cut the rebate to suit the glazing (I used 3mm glass/10mm argon gas/ 3mm glass, total 16mm, + 10mm timber bead = 26 mm rebate. Then cut the ends of the top and bottom pieces to fit the rebate of the sides, then joined using purbond glue and dowels upstairs, biscuit joins downstairs. In some large and heavy sashes, I used a long hex head screw at each joint, in from the edge so the screw is not visible when the window is closed. Not ideal but it works and is strong. Timber is cypress.
I will post a pic or 2 in the next day or 2.
Chris