one man water level

I think everyone has used a water level at one time or another using a clear hose, I know I have hundreds of times. Here's an idea that some of you already know but I didn't until talking to a mate at work. get a bucket cut a hole in the bottom and attach your hose to it, (i used a 19mm to 13mm poly reducer from bunnings) then fill your bucket and hose with water put the bucket roughly where you want your mark and then take the other end and place a mark there and so on. There you have your level and then you can measure up or down from that at each point to where you want

Brilliant! How did people do this before?

Same way. You can buy one specially made for the job. It's a plastic resevoir with a hose at the bottom. Or you can use the water resevoir from a car windscreen washer for the purpose. It already has a spigot for the hose and a lid to stop the water from spilling out.

this maybe a dumb question...
but do you take the level from somewhere on the bucket, or let the water drain down in to the tube where you've got the tape mark?

Doh! I don't get it:o

What's the advantage over just using a hose?

HH.

Set it up so that the level of the water in the bucket is roughly where you want take you level from. You just sit it on something and it stays there. Then you take the tube to the job and the water will find the same level as in the resevoir. You make a mark and then take the tube somewhere else, make a mark there and so on. It will always find the same level as long as you don't move the bucket.

Aaaaaaahhhhhh I see said the blind man.:o

Thanks SC, would be useful for marking up picture or chair rail in a room putting the bucket in the middle and then marking all four walls, I like it.:D

HH.

This is a 200BC laser level. Them Greeks were clever bunnies.

I have used these a several times, but have never bothered with the hole in the bottom of the bucket. It works fine just having the tube come over the side as long as the tube doesn't get kinked.
The last time I used it was to map a house slab that had cracked and failed (minehttp://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...cons/icon8.gif). I added a 1 meter ruler to the end of the tube, got a zero referance at, say 500mm. then walked around the house reading off the water level at each spot. i.e back corner 556mm therefore 56mm below referance.

yeah isnt water great, i ve used one with 2 people heaps but i never heard of doing it like this. i suppose theres a hundred variations on the theme, but for those that arnt so technically minded (im trying to be polite here, not a smart ass) i thought id add a pic.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by silentC

Set it up so that the level of the water in the bucket is roughly where you want take you level from. You just sit it on something and it stays there. Then you take the tube to the job and the water will find the same level as in the resevoir. You make a mark and then take the tube somewhere else, make a mark there and so on. It will always find the same level as long as you don't move the bucket.

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Got it now - the bucket becomes the extension of the tube

Now check your "level" marks with a laser.


Not so level is it??
I know, Ive been caught out before using the ever relyable never wrong water level.

Al :(

Add a few drops of food colouring like red or blue and it makes it much easier to see the water in the clear tube.

I have a system that I have used for years, 5 litre water container, tube in the top, stick taped to tube at working end with a reference mark on it. Provided you always have the water come to the same mark it is accurate. Have laid several slabs and paved areas and never had a serious error other than when I tugged the tube when it had caught around a formwork peg. Tube slid on the stick and guess who didn't notice for a while. Realised in time when I could see the mesh sitting on the chairs was a different height from the top of the formwork on each side.

cheers

hi dan been watching the forum for some time now and thought it was about time to have a say ,been using a water level solo for years and never had a problem even had my levels checked with lasers and are +or- 1mm not bad for something that only costs a few bucks and lasts for years,it looks something like this a 50x25x1.8 piece of pine or what ever then router a groove length ways in the pine about 12mmwide x 10mm deep , about 20mts 12mm clear plastic tube,run tube in the groove in the pine and secure with 5mm strips of hoop iron screwed across the tube in about 3 or 4 places to hold the tube in place. For the water container i use a old silastic or gap filler tube, take nozzle off and drill hole through plunger in bottom then replace with a clean nozzle, trim nozzle to suit tubing ,i then secure the water container to an old 25mm broom handle screwed in an upright position to a 300x300 base plate any old timber will do for base plate a couple of cable ties on the water contaner to the broom stick add water and your off,i use food colouring in the water as it makes it easier to see the water .I have shown dozens of blokes over the years how to use a water level some pick it up some dont just a few tips for ya DONT move the water contianer if, you do have to move it you will have to take a new reading from a spot that you have allready leveled,i use 20mts of tubing because generally if you set up in the middle of your job you dont have to move it at all, and when you first fill the container with water lay the staff (the pine with the tube in it) on the ground and let water run out of it untill there are no air bubbles in the tube ,this is the enemy of the water level , at any time that you lose water you will have to take a new bench level. boy sounds confusing but i promise that if set up correctly and the principles are understood that it is just as accurate as a laser and a hell of a lot cheaper. cheers

I used a water level for years on my lonesome to level the brackets for roller doors. I would install one bracket first and then hook the water level onto that bracket with a hook made from wire designed to hold the 3/8 plastic tube vertical up the side of the bracket.

With red food dye in the water it made it easy to see from the other side of the door way and then just mark where the other bracket had to go.

I just used a couple of 3/8 bolts in the ends of the tube to stop the water from getting away when not in use.

Over 75% of roller door problems come from the fact the brackets aren't level.

Just looking at the enclosed photo...... doesn't the missus complain about the bucket on the arm of the chair? I know mine would!