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Hello brains-trust,
I'm in need of a simulated method of created urushi (japanese laquerware) finish in black.
It needs to be very smooth, high gloss and very fine. I don't mind following the traditional multi-layered and sanded-back method of application.
Urushi is toxic and impossible to find, but I do need to finish some new things in exactly this manner.
Does anyone know of a finish that will do this?
This is pure speculation and probably not much help really, but I did get a nice deep black finish once by using pre tinted black Stylewood, and then buffing the &$@p out of it.
Maybe you could use the straight black for a couple of coats, then a coat of 50/50 black and clear - to give the impression of depth. Then maybe a final coat of clear. Then buff hard. Maybe ?
Would black acrylic car lacquer work for you? It gives a nice piano gloss finish on MDF.
oooooo Master Splinter, I think you are definitely onto something there! A piano finish is perfect.... of to Dr Google to research!
Black acrilic or black nitro ..... acrilic will probably be a little easier to use and better long term ...... and then of course you have all the automotive buffing compounds ...... there are some serioulsy good micro abrasive automotive compounds out there now.
And remember the automotive and other thinners bassed primers and undercoats work very well on wood ..... I've been using Wattly Super-etch in both black and grey on timber for years.
cheers
Soundman, I remember a thread you started a long time ago about speaker enclosures and the finishes on those. It was in part of you and your thread from which I was thinking. My use is not so exotic, simply small object d'art, but the attention to detail in finish is exactly the same. :)
if you work with a thinners bassed black primer and a black laquer top coat you should be able to work up are realy flat, smooth, deep, ultra gloss finish.
This is exactly what they do with pianos.
And it will wear well.
Particularly superetch will consolidate the timber surface realy well and sand to a realy good flat fully choked out base.
With a few coats of acrillic you should pull a fair gloss off the gun that will buff out BRIGHT as.
AND in warm weather, you will lay up multiple coats in a day ...... My mate who is a piano technician says they could get 6 coats on a Piano in a day, in Melbourne In winter ..... if it was sunny.
Once you have worked with thinners bassed products, polly will frustrate the hell out of you.
cheers
All good suggestions.
Urushi is kinda toxic - many people at my class have bad skin reactions to it, a bit like how rubber sap can set my skin off, but urushi does nothing to me :hmm:
It is about Y12000 a pot here, which would be around $150 there, but I doubt you'd get it less than $200, if you can find it at all. Biggest problem though is the method of application is quite demanding, the tools and materials quite specialised, and the chance for first time disappointment virtually guaranteed. Other options mentioned, much more forgiving, and more likely to give you the finish you desire without a bunch of swears.
G9, I wasn't really intending to use Urushi for the very reasons you suggest. I certainly don't have the required skills....plus the job is far more utilitarian....plus it's expensive (I found it on Amazon Japan!) and toxicity isn't my favourite thing :)
Soundman, a favour? Can you ask your piano mate what it is they use for the finish? I'll go buy the Superetch tomorrow. Incredibly it's sold locally....
Another strategy on the finish might be to do pullover. Quick way to a piano finish, especially on grainy timber.
The blackest black I have ever seen was a refinished end table. Brushed on 2 coats of India Ink from an art store, laquer on top. Very had to focus on the surface, so black.
no need to ask ...... either nitro or acrillic laquer ......... many of the commercialy built pianos are done in two pack laquer.
cheers
Would Eric Olthwait have been impressed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robson Valley
SuperCheap stock an acrylic black - after that, Auto Paint Supplies in Fyshwick (same court area where Carba-Tech used to be). 1.6-1.8mm tip for best results with acrylic. Spraycan also works.