Myrtle burl coffee table finishing?

Hi guys, I'm just getting into woodworking (restoring cars was getting to hard on my back), I have a piece of myrtle burl that I'd like to make into a coffee table, keeping its natural colour. My first attempt I used a casting resin to coat a similar burl was a complete failure, it looked great.... for a couple of days then started developing air bubbles under the resin and hasn't stopped since, that was 3 weeks ago. So for this piece I'm not sure what to use, ie. Tung oil (which Ive seen but never used), your run of the mill varnish like cabot's, etc. I want it to be water proof at least and be able to take some heat. So any suggestions would be very much appreciated.

Sorry I should add, this isn't the piece of myrtle I killed with casting resin it a new piece

Thanks
First pic is the new one, second is the bubbling failure

Attachment 359623Attachment 359624

First you will need to sand your slab
then fill the pin holes
sand again
then apply your finish of choice -- my preference would be a tung oil floor sealer

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ian

First you will need to sand your slab
then fill the pin holes
sand again
then apply your finish of choice -- my preference would be a tung oil floor sealer

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This is probably a dumb question, but, does tung oil go on the same as varnish or is something else involved?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by adamhelps

This is probably a dumb question, but, does tung oil go on the same as varnish or is something else involved?

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With tongue oil, you brush on, looking for a wet layer, leave for approx 40 to 60 minutes then dry brush or use lint free rag to remove excess. Wait a minimum of 24 hours then recoat the same way.

I've just used it on a table top segment last weekend.
Attachment 359637

Thanks Lappa, that looks great.

If you are just getting into the art of woodworking, it maybe an idea to try out a few various coatings. Often, one product will not be, thebe all, end all of all projects. Oneproduct that may fit the bill with what you are after is the Kunos countertopoil #243. Whilst it is certified food safe, it is also heat resistant to 50degrees. If you have an off cut, try it out first, I think you will be amazedat how the colour and structure of the timber pops out at you. One of the greatbenefits of using an oil is that you can rejuvenate the surface without anysanding back as there is not layer coating as such to scratch. Being a naturalcoating, observe the curing times though. If you are going to fill the holes,consider using ebony putty to actually highlight the natural imperfections. Itwill give the piece more detail.