Tassie oak table - oil & wax, or poly?

Hi All,
I'm about to finish a new-timber Tassie oak dining table that will be used a lot by the family (so picture water, milk and coffee spills, sticky fingers, possibly occasional hot stuff). I've just bought and read Neil's book, which is excellent for teaching how to apply various finishes but not so much on when to use said finishes (note to author for next edition). Even looking through this forum there's a bit of confusion around as to what finish is appropriate for what situation....

So, I'm looking for advice on a table finish that will be reasonably resistant to everyday use. It doesn't need to be bulletproof but should be repairable if necessary. For that reason I was leaning away from 2-pac and 1-pac poly finishes, which are tough but tend to be difficult to repair if scratched or marked (and they look and feel "plastic" to me as well). I'd like to use Danish Oil followed by U-Beaut Traditional Wax, but am unsure as to how durable this finish will be. I'm happy to re-wax the table every six months if this is necessary. Any advice happily received.

Gidday


Depending on your required final colour, you could put a few coats of shellac on, which will warm it up a bit, followed by danish, or just go for the danish on it's own. I used 'Rustins' DO on kitchen benches and it was fabulous. COffee cups not a worry, but it doesn't offer any impact resistance - as long as you're happy with developing a nice patina (dings) you'll be fine! And it is easily repaired.

I've just finished a hallway table with integrain 'tung oil finish'. I think it is a good compromise between an oil finish and a poly. While I can't comment on how will it will last yet, I would expect that I could simply rub it back and reoil as needed.

I was originally planning on waxing it too, but I think I will leave it as is.

I'll try and post pics next week.

Trav

For the toughest good looking finish.
2 coats of shellac.
Then a few coats of poly applied with a pad in the same way as french polish.
rubbing back between each coat.

....bearing in mind that tung oil and danis oil are 'wiping varnish', that is poly with lots of oil. This allows penetration into the timber, and a slow cure. What you're left with is a thin varnish with oil under. It does seem to liven up again with later applications tho.

When poly scratches you can't repair it ... it's strip and start again.

Go for either DO or an oil burnished with an ROS (good for grain filling as well if you haven't already).

Okay, I think I will go with DO, but what about a wax on top? If the surface gets scratched can I just rewax, or will I have to strip the wax off, reapply DO and then wax again.

(If I sound confused it's because....:confused: ... but thanks for the advice guys)

You should be able to renew the surface by stripping the wax off (with Ubeaut Polish Reviver moderator?), then fine sand and add a coat or two of DO and then rewax. Or else just finish with DO and buff, and in case of scratching fine sand and reapply the oil and buff.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trav

I've just finished a hallway table with integrain 'tung oil finish'. I think it is a good compromise between an oil finish and a poly. While I can't comment on how will it will last yet, I would expect that I could simply rub it back and reoil as needed.

I was originally planning on waxing it too, but I think I will leave it as is.

I'll try and post pics next week.

Trav

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Trav,
Does the integrain finish darken the timber -- i am thinking of using it on my tassie oak hall table when its ready for finishing

thanks
Albert

It does darken it - but not too much IMHO. All oils will darken timber to a certain extent. I think it brings out the grain well.

Pics soon I promise.


trav