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Gday,
today I was asked if I could strip and refinish a kitchen countertop and bathroom vanity top.
the timber is 50mm solid Huon finished in what appears to be a 2pack epoxy that's been there for 15 years but is now cracked and degrading. I've suggested I take the tops away strip them completely by removing at least 3mm top and bottom then redo with Kunos countertop oil. Does this seem ok? Suggestions and comments welcome.
Hi Fubar. I know nothing about Kunos countertop oil. However I would steer clear of any oil finish on kitchentop and vanity tops(even table tops) in any timber.
Huon is an inherently oily timber and I have seen it spit back out oil finishes long after they have been applied. It will do the same with most turps based single pac finishes if they even manage to set on the wood in the first place.
Some single pac thinners based products will work however for a hard work area you might as well call in the heavy artillery....
A 2 pac finish is usually the way to go. It can even pay to wipe the timber down with thinners and let dry before spraying to remove the surface oil.
I'm a bit surprised by this but I won't argue against it, I can only reference my own experiences. I've used oil finishes on Huon pine quite a bit and never had this problem and have come to prefer it to any varnish or two pack finish, which always seems to kill that particular warmth and tactile beauty of huon pine. The oldest thing that I can reference and check right now would be about six years old and there's no sign of any problems like described and in fact it still looks as good as the day that I did it.Quote:
Originally Posted by artful bodger
I've used a range of oils on huon pine over the years including Danish oil and, for a gloss finish, Deks Ojle.
I agree with Larks. I've had no problems with oil finished Huon Pine. I have several pieces out and about as well as a table in my home which was hard burnished over seven years ago. It's just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by artful bodger
As for using oil on hard traffic areas, I have used hard burnishing oil for a lot of high traffic pieces, including a mobile work bench over ten years ago.
You can have a look here for some results of testing that I did a couple years ago.
Regards,
Rob
What bits of furniture were you coating in your reference?Quote:
Originally Posted by Larks
I do use danish oil on chairs made from huon as well as sculptural items with reasonable success, however when the surfaces get frequent water contact danish oil(or any other oil) is just not up to the job. In my humble shed full of huon pine, made lots of stuff out of it for a long time opinion.
The local tavern has the longest huon pine bar in the world. A taverns bar cops about the most punishment of any furniture item. When the bar was put in, in about 1999 the bartop was sprayed with heaps of coats of 2 pack. It is ready for a revival now. Had it been oiled I doubt it would have lasted 3 months, well even 3 weeks before needing attention.
I don't mean to sound like a smart bottom know it all here, just stating what I have seen.
On the other hand, to be contrary, you could just leave the huon pine unfinished. Don't put anything on it.
It might discolour and go a kind of grey shade. But it probably wont rot and will still be around for a lifetime guarantee.
Quote:
Originally Posted by artful bodger
Like I said, I wouldn't argue your experience, I've simply done two pack finishes to death in the past and really have just grown to dislike what to me is a plastic looking finish when compared to an oil finish so I tend to look for a suitable oil finish for timber that deserves it whenever I can. A personal preference.
For an oil finish on a huon pine piece that cops a lot of water and harsh weather, Deks Olje has proven more than up to the task so for an internal bench top I'd happily recommend it, with the ability to finish it with a matt, gloss or semi gloss finish (by combining the #1 and #2 oils): http://www.floodaustralia.net/produc...eks_olje_2.php
Hello Fubar,
If you have not yet treated the bench top then the kunos countertop is certainly suitable for this area. It has been used not only in domestic homes however also in commercial spaces as well.
The Livos oils are penetrating oils, leaving no layer on top to scratch and peel off. Whilst they are durable oils they are also natural, so can mark through contact with harsher chemicals, a real bonus is however that these marks can be quickly and easily spot repaired as well as rejuvenated if necessary. Unlike 2 pac or varnishes, whilst they may “last longer" initially, once the coating breaks and water can get underneath, the timber can then start to show grey marks which one cannot fix without a full sand back. The countertop oil has the added benefit of being heat resistant up to 50 degrees and also certified food safe.
Livos does have a new Bathroom oil, it is also slightly glossier due to he addition waxes, designed specially for the bathroom so would be great for a vanity unit. It is the Linn bathroom and furniture oil. This will take a bit more wear and tear, however it is the chemicals within detergents, hair colour, cleaning solutions that mostly effect the surface and should come in as little contact with the oil as possible.
Like some have posted I too have tried a range of surface treatments for wooden bench tops over the years. Again as some have commented I too intensely dislike the plastic appearance of 2 pak and simply won't use it on any wooden surface. Traditionally for all antiques I only ever use shellac, though have yet to try hard shellac but from reading Neils comments on this and others for table tops subject to regular use but respected I suspect this is more than adequate for the purpose.
For kitchen, bathroom or even laundry wooden bench tops (be they Huon, Oregan, celary or Kauri), while oils like Organoil (burnishing oil) can be effective, my experience with one benchtop I sealed using this is that both water and heat over time will result in marking and even breakdown of the finish.
I have no experience with kunos/livos oils but rather have always used Tung oil based products to seal my kitchen and bathroom wooden bench tops. It is both food friendly, robust in that water isn't an issue and seems to take heat pretty well. I resanded and re-sealed the kitchen bench top about 3 months ago but that was the first time in about 13 years and it has certainly seen a lot of action over the years. The one thing I have found is that this coating doesn't seem to like metho being spilt on it, nor perfume, nail polish etc. but then again there really isn't any logical reason why such products should be in the kitchen and I am careful with my partner's products in the bathroom and have taught her to understand this. But if the worst happens, it is easily rectified unlike 2 pak !
I wish to finish a norfolk pine dashboard in my vintage car and have a high gloss over a Jarrah stain - would Deks Olje be suitable for this - it would have to be O.K. for outside useQuote:
Originally Posted by Larks
I'd have to say yes indeed, though read up on it yourself for better confidence. It's intended for outside use in a marine environment and when it works so well when exposed to sun, wind, rain and salt water - take out the last three elements and you'd have to think it'll be even more durable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alf Scotting
The trick, though, is following the instructions to the tee and being patient in your application.
I'd vote for the Kunos oil on a kitchen benchtop, the best finish for the best timber. I've just done three fish in the livos oil, about five coats each and the slow build-up of a warm polished glow just can't be beat. Livos oil doesn't seem to darken like other oil finishes. Remember plenty of drying time between coats. The only thing I would question would be taking off 3mm. If you do the stripping with a scraper you might get away with less, not that it matters.
Great to hear Toymaker Len, the oils do give a softer natural finish as compared to the two pacs. Yes, the drying times are important, especially if periods of humidity one is best to allow an extra day in-between coats. If using natural oils (as some oils are more a mixture of other ingredients) one would just need to sand back to bare timber to ensure the oil penetrates into the top of the pores. Once the previous coating is removed, there is no need to sand further.
I've varnished Huon pine on the cabin top of a boat. 12 months later it's getting freckle like spots all over on the timber under the varnish. Any ideas what this might be. Moisture? Oils? Contamination?