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Hi All,
Has anyone heard of self levelling concrete?
If so, is it easy to apply and is there anything to watch out for as opposed to using regular concrete.
I have looked high and low but cannot find out any info on the product.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Steve
Without coming across as a smart ass you sure someone isnt having you on?
Like the old left handed screwdriver you always asked your apprentice to get you?
Unless Ive been living under a rock (leaving myself wide open here :p)
Im sure as hell unaware of any type of self levelling concrete.
Steve,
You could mix up a sloppy brew of grout I guess!!
You are probably referring to self-levelling cement based toppings, and generally they are self-levelling in the same sense as polyurethene paint: you won't see the brush marks, but that doesn't mean they don't follow the substrate!
Most have a limited thickness as well.
Try this thread for a bit of info! http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ighlight=ARdit
Cheers,
P
Its a topping for addition to an existing base not a substitute for "regular" concrete. You mix it and pour it and spread it out then it levels itself within reason. There are limits as to how thick it can be, but I cant remember what this is.
I think Ardit make one.
I used one from Bunnings - Lanko I think, it didn't really work until i made it really runny.. almost like thick paint.... then it levelled OK. As far as I know the one for wet areas is pretty expensive around $50 for 20kg
Cheers
Pulse
It does exist, it is normally called "self leveling compound". It is not a structural concrete as such. It is just a thin layer of material that is poor over the top of an existing slab. Because the stuff is very viscous it will level itsself (as will water). When it dries it has filled any dips etc on the underlying slab.
This is normally used to fix problems with a floor without major structural changes. Check the details from the manufactures for how deep the self leveling compound can be.
Do a google search on "self leveling compounds"
What is the application you need it for.
There are a number of products on the market for differnt applications and build heights.
like most things you get what you pay for the cheaper ones are lots of sand & cement and do bugger all the better ones give you a feathered edge and the finsh is A+++.
What ever you do make sure you prime the subsurface with a primer. Bond crete water downed does the trick but each manufacter has there own.
Brands inclduld Bostik, Ardit, Marpei, Fosco, Sika, ETC there is heaps tell what the application is and ill see what info i have in my file's.
Boral Concrete has a product called "Easyplace", a mix with a slump of 140mm but (to quote Boral) "with the strength and finishing time of normal 80mm slump concrete"Quote:
Originally Posted by maglite
I don't know much about the techicalities, but to increase the slump, Boral will be adding some sort of plasticiser to make the mix runny without using any more water than a normal mix. I've heard of "superflow" mixes with slumps greater than 200mm.
I don't think it's the sort of stuff you would order from Mr Mini-mix
Guys,
Thanks very much for your replies as the advice has proved invaluable.
Gaza, application is filling an old bathroom floor up to level with a new timber floor.
The timber floor was laid as part of a new addition and the plan was to continue the timber into the old bathroom that is to become a study/office.
There wont be any moisture in the room at all unless one takes into account beer!!
However the old bathroom floor has a fall of 15mm left to right built into it, with the far left side feathered to within 2mm of the new floor.
The old bathroom floor(suspended concrete) is in a very sound condition so should accept a topping compound.
As far as i can tell the levelling compound will be a much easier and cheaper option than trying to grind the concrete or remove it entirely and rebuild.
Real timber obviously isnt an option but we can lay some of that timber look vinyl over it instead.Not the best option but definately cheaper and easier.
According to the DAVCO website they forecast a coverage of 1 - 1.6 sqm per 20 kilo bag to fill up to 20mm.
The room is approx 6.0 sqm, any idea what i can expect to pay to have the room done would be great.
Many thanks
Steve
OH and Deems, how is the weather under that rock that you call home:p
the ratio of bags to build height is 1 bag = 12mm for 1m2.
you will need about 13 bags.
you will have do this job in two applications.
the cheap stuff at big B will do the trick for your job.
this stuff while being self leveling you still need to work with a trowel, what we do is drill 6mm hole in concrete wack a green plug in then we place a screw in the plug and adjust it so that all the heads are at the propsed finished floor level. in a 1x1mt grid.
dont forget to prime the surface, to mix u always add the mix to the water, you can use an electric drill.
any questions or info required just ask.
Hehe and to think I was reluctant posting what i did makes it even funnier:DQuote:
Originally Posted by maglite
What a timely topic..
I'm about to launch into a similar project - similar size room, (but going to return it to being a bathroom).
Gaza, anyone,
1. How runny is this stuff? The Davco spec sheet gives coverage per 20Kg bag to 1mm thickness which sounds pretty 'low viscosity'.
2. How long does it stay runny? - Assuming '10-15 minutes reflow time' is an indication, and it must take 5 mins to mix a bag, even doing 6m2 in 2 applications sounds like pretty fast bucket work. I'm assuming 2 applications means layers, not doing it in 2 sections.
It doesn't sound like the sort of stuff I'll enjoy getting off if I get the first attempt wrong....
-r
Who is still looking for a chainsaw with an Undo button.....