Hardwood table staining and finishing advice

Hi guys,

First posting on the forum after trawling through all the posts, so go easy on me!

I have a 10 year old dinning table that appears to be a dark hardwood (see images) which I would like to restore.

Have been doing a bit of research on this and was in at Bunnings and Masters today.

So the plan is to completely strip the table down, sand, and then stain and finish.

What I need some advice on, is the best materials to strip down the old finish with and the stain and finishing options.

The table will have to live in an outside deck whilst I work on it and moved in an out as required from the open as it is too big to move otherwise. Thinking I have 4 days. 1 to strip, 1 to sand, 1 to stain and 1 to finish.

Overall, I want a semi gloss/matt finish the will be very durable and not mark easily.

1. Striping down - what are the best proven stain/paint strippers for hardwood tables and what is the process? Today I saw a variety of stuff in retail land all claiming to be the best!

2. Stain - water based vs non water based? Which will be the most durable? The table will live in a hot upstairs room and get a lot of sun.

What is the Wattyl Traditional Craftsman stain like? Are the stains sold in Masters and Bunnings ok, or can I get some professional grade material somewhere else?

3. Finishing -I was going to finish things off with a few coats of Danish Oil or simply try and find a few cans of spray on clear lacquer. Thoughts? Suggestions here?

4.Application - I don't have spray gear. I was wanting to use a roller (for the stain) or a large sponge applicator. Ideas on this? Also, what is the finish like with Danish Oil or lacquer if a cloth is used? - Should I be going aerosol cans if I want a nicer finish?

Thanks in advance!

John.

Hi John and welcome,

I'm not sure that the table is dark hardwood, but that will be resolved when you begin preparing it for it's next incarnation. What tools do you have at your disposal for stripping back and final prep of the table?
I think t would be a good idea to get an inkling of what you are dealing with before plunging headlong into a full strip of the surface. It would important to ensure that you are not working with a veneer rather than solid wood.
Perhaps sand back just a small section of the table top (or possibly the under side of the top) to ascertain what you are actually working with.
You may find that after stripping and prepping, you don't need or won't want a stain on it. Then you have other options for finishing the table which you might consider.

Regards,

Rob

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LGS

Hi John and welcome,

I'm not sure that the table is dark hardwood, but that will be resolved when you begin preparing it for it's next incarnation. What tools do you have at your disposal for stripping back and final prep of the table?
I think t would be a good idea to get an inkling of what you are dealing with before plunging headlong into a full strip of the surface. It would important to ensure that you are not working with a veneer rather than solid wood.
Perhaps sand back just a small section of the table top (or possibly the under side of the top) to ascertain what you are actually working with.
You may find that after stripping and prepping, you don't need or won't want a stain on it. Then you have other options for finishing the table which you might consider.

Regards,

Rob

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Hi Rob,

definitely not a laminate - see some more photos attached.

In terms of equipment, I have a really good Ryobi sander and some rollers.

The table will need to match the chairs so definitely needs to be stained again.

John.

Hi,
OK, so that's a good thing. Is the stain covered with anything other than, say, a polyurethane? If not, I'd suggest you start sanding. You shouldn't need any stripper. What kind of sander do you have. Is the Ryobi a belt, orbital or random orbital unit. Also, what grits do you have available for use.

I would imagine you could start with about 80-100 grit and then 150, 180, 240 and 400. This will ultimately depend on what type the sander is. 400g is the coarsest grit I would stop at. This will lead into a good finish with the new stain. If you want to go higher, probably not much more than 500 grit

As far as finishing the table after staining, I'd recommend Minwax Wipe On Poly (satin). You can get this at Bunnings. Use a clean cotton rag to wipe on the first coat and sand lightly when it's dry. The repeat the process twice more. Finally, add the last coat. Should look beautiful.

Regards,

Rob

Without trying to discourage you, I reckon you'd find it heaps easier to simply touch up the dings etc rather than trying to restain the whole thing. Matching stains is something that I find hard to do. It looks good on a test piece, but then when you do the whole thing, it looks quite different.

Either way, good luck.

Trav