I was going to bump this thread but the time limit has run out https://www.woodworkforums.com/f171/h...ackage-124009/
I decided I wanted a slider so wandered over to Felder and they didn't have one to show me. I found that a bit odd but eventually they found a customer who kindly showed me his machine.
I bought the basic because I did not want a combination machine and I also did not want a large foot print, these things as you know can take up a lot of room. Besides that the Basic was on special so it got the nod.
I added a precision fence, dado capability and wheel kit, I think the wheel kit is a bit steeply priced for what it is and the Dado arbour set could be knocked up by any capable machinist in an hour The Germans no matter what they sell always work on you customising the product at added cost so add ons can add up really quickly. I purposely did not buy the outrigger as my sheet cutting will be limited in the future though I am doing a fair bit at the moment. I have found that the machine is great for cutting sheets, the biggest issue I have is getting them onto it. There is no way a single person can lift a sheet of 20mm MDF on their own and it is something that had not occurred to me. I cut them down to 1200mm each way before putting them on but then this machine is too small for a 2400 sheet. I only mention it because if you buy a bigger machine you still have to be able to load the sheet.
The basic will not quite fit a 1200 sheet on the sliding table with the cross fence in place, it misses out by about 250mm which is a bit of a problem. It means you can't put the sheet on and use the cross fence as a reference. I take the cross fence off the sliding table and reference against the rip fence and do the first cut to get the sheet under 1200mm. After that I re-fit the cross fence and reference off that. To me not a big deal but I can imagine that it would annoy some people.
The biggest issue I have found with the machine is the assembly instructions, simply put they do not exist as a step by step instruction as the user would expect. Apparently in Europe instructions are not necessary as assembly is done by the factory when delivered. When they started to attack the US market there were all sorts of complaints and the factory did a few videos on YouTube to try and overcome the problem. There are still areas that are a mystery and you need to put the thinking cap on. It comes down to "if you want the product put up with what we give you". The electrician had to remove the plug on the cabinet of the machine to wire it up as it was a European 3 phase DIN plug which we don't use. BTW every machine is test run in the factory and you will find sawdust in it to prove the point.
Like a few others have mentioned I found the accessory precision fence a bit of a mystery as it won't slide well along the bar smoothly, in some cases it wouldn't move at all. I think I have found the answer in the last few days but it was a damned nuisance and I kept forgetting to ring up and ask the question. With a 305mm blade it will not cut a full 100mm deep but there is a 315mm blade you can buy to overcome this. The blades are not the same as every other saw, they have two drive pin holes which means that the blade retention bolt in the arbour does not have to be done up too tightly. Apparently there are after market sources in the US who will punch the holes in any blade so I am told.
The dust collection port is five inch so is between the common sizes we use. Why this is so is a great big mystery no one seems to have the answer to. I foresaw this issue and ordered a heap of five inch flexy hose last year but I still need an adapter to hook it up. The saw actually ejects the dust through the port when in use without anything hooked up. When I actually finish my workshop renos I will of course hook it up, until then reality bites and I put up with it. The overhead guard has a small dust port and given what i have seen so far it should all work very well.
Everyone complains about the on/off switch and it is a true pain in the neck. If the table is loaded and slid right back you have to literally crawl under it to switch the machine on. Surely there has to be a better solution. I am thinking of a switch on a long lead at the moment or something of that nature.
One thing that Hammer do really well is zero stops on the cross fence. You can take it off and re-install without any issues as the fence zeros against installed stops. They are adjustable if needed but mine have never moved from the factory. It takes 30 seconds to put on and off without any tools.
Issues? I was a bit put out with the electrical connector and the instructions as mentioned.
A slider changes the way you work but it does not mean that you are any safer if using the rip fence as per a conventional saw. if you rip using the sliding table then yes, it is a lot safer. See this video Schutzvorrichtung und Arbeitshilfe ''Fritz und Franz'' der Holz-BG, Muenchen - YouTube
Is it worth the money, you bet but then I have to justify my purchase:U. It is another step above a conventional saw in the way it is made and the results that come off it. The factory blades give a very good finish on the cuts and all in all I am a happy camper.
