Broken Leg on Sheraton Table

Oh Tragedy!
Yesterday I saw my family's prized heirloom Sheraton sofa table lying askew. A picture had fallen from the wall onto one of its feet, breaking a rear knee leg away from the column base, taking with it a large splinter of the base, plus other minor pieces. On close inspection it appears that it had been previously repaired in the same spot. There is evidence of old glue on the faces and behind the large splinter. There is also a piece of dowel that had been inserted from below.
I am considering a repair along the following lines. Glueing and screwing the large splinter back into place (the screw heads will covered by the leg joint when in place). With the leg joint I am considering four 6mm dowels, two on each side of the tenon.
To replace the mouling around the top of the base, I am thinking of shaping a suitable timber and "japanning" it to match the pre-existing. While I am fairly confident in my own abilities, I more than happy to accept advice.

Attachment 286388Attachment 286389Attachment 286390Attachment 286391

my inclination is to remove the tenon and old glue, very slightly (say by 0.1mm) enlarge the mortices and insert a new tenon
for glue I'd stay away from epoxy, PVA et al and use animal (hide) glue

Thanks, Ian,
After reading your reply, and receiving advice from others, I now proposing to steer clear of PVA and epoxy and look at using polyurethane glue (Selley's Durabond) (with all of the necessary precautions).
I have cleaned off the old glue (it came away quite easily), and the joint fits snugly. I am not game to remove and replace the tenon, but will glue and screw the large splinter into place then dowel and glue the leg in place. I am quietly confident that my repair will be at least as good as the previous.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rbalse

Thanks, Ian,
After reading your reply, and receiving advice from others, I now proposing to steer clear of PVA and epoxy and look at using polyurethane glue (Selley's Durabond) (with all of the necessary precautions).
I have cleaned off the old glue (it came away quite easily), and the joint fits snugly. I am not game to remove and replace the tenon, but will glue and screw the large splinter into place then dowel and glue the leg in place. I am quietly confident that my repair will be at least as good as the previous.

---

If this table has the sedimental value you say it has please don't start down the path of turning it into firewood.

polyurethane glue is possibly worse than PVA when it comes to the sort of repair you need to do.

the ease of removal of the old glue suggests the original maker used hide glue. Done properly, glue is sufficient to reattach the splinter, and with a bit of effort the previous repair can be made to disappear

I spoke with a pro restorer. He said he would use Hide glue on the joint, but Araldite to re-fix the splinter. He also recommended dampening the remnants of the old glue to soften and remove as much as possible to ensure better fit, but that Hide glue should stick to any that is left.
He said that Araldate would expand the fill any gaps and would be stronger than Hide Glue.
I found liquid Hide glue on-line from the UK at half the price of buying it locally (plus a trip across town). I want to support Aussie enterprise, but do not like being gouged.

Richard