Gyprock lining for garage

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25th May 2005, 01:16 PM
haph

Gyprock lining for garage

Good afternoon everyone,

I am currently putting new Gyprock to the interior of my garage which is timber framed and has fibro on the outside. I am having problems with putting gyprock around the opening of the garage's roller door. When the B&D technician fitted the roller door to my garage, he fixed the rails and overhead holding brackets (?) directly to the timber frame. I have removed the roller door when I started putting gyprock as I want to cover the ceiling with gyprock up to the corner above the roller door and the lintel. Now I am having problems with covering the sides of the opening and the lintel. If I just leave the roller door rails and overhead brackets as they are now and cut the gyprock to fit around them, the roller door will be too close and touch the gyprock covering the lintel. The gyprock on the side of the rails may also look ugly as I cut around the rail screw brackets. If I detach the rails and overhead brackets, line the gyprock and then put the rails and overhead brackets back, the gyprock will look nicer and no more problems with roller door touching the gyprock above.

My questions are, if I go with option 2, will the rails and overhead brackets still be strong enough to support the roller door as all the screws are now not fixed directly to the timber but going through a 10mm of gyprock layer first. Will the gyprock under the rails and overhead brackets be broken because of the roller door's weight and too close to the edges (rail screws will be about 6-7cm from the gyprock edges). I appreciate very much for your replies.

Haph
25th May 2005, 01:32 PM
Ashore

Quote:

Originally Posted by haph

My questions are, if I go with option 2, will the rails and overhead brackets still be strong enough to support the roller door as all the screws are now not fixed directly to the timber but going through a 10mm of gyprock layer first.
Haph

If you are worried use longer screws or drill right through and use bolts nuts &
and you can try some padding ply etc... between rails and giprock to spread the load over bigger area of giprock ,may reduce stress /cracking

The trouble with life is there's no background music.
25th May 2005, 02:03 PM
silentC

I wouldn't be screwing roller door brackets on through Gyprock because you'll have 10mm or so of plaster crumbling between the bracket and the stud and it will probably work loose over time.

It would be better to fix a hardwood strip for the plaster to butt up against and screw the hardware to it instead.
25th May 2005, 03:04 PM
haph

Thanks Ashore and SilentC for your advices. If I use hard wood strip, what kind of hard wood should I use and if they are available in 10mm thick. Can I use 10mm ply wood as alternative?

Thanks,
Haph
25th May 2005, 03:09 PM
silentC

I reckon you can use whatever you like as long as it wont compress when you screw your brackets to it. Have a look at the local hardware shop, they'll probably have small section sizes of Tassie Oak or similar that would do the trick. Don't see any problem with using ply either.
26th May 2005, 12:05 AM
johnc

The brackets to our panel lift door go right through the gyprock ceiling, and we have had no trouble. However we did fix a piece of 4" angle on edge behind each bracket to spread the load to prevent vibration destroying the sheet. The panel lift is a PIA for vibration, it is hard on the hinges and having a low head room kit means the motor really strains compared to a rollerdoor. Your question is the walls only I gather, if it is a standard roller door. Our rear door is a roller and fixed direct to the brickwork, not sure if I would have been so keen to mount that through plaster sheet, as the brackets are probably more unsightly than the methods mentioned.

JohnC
26th May 2005, 12:12 AM
Ashore

Quote:

Originally Posted by haph

Thanks Ashore and SilentC for your advices. If I use hard wood strip, what kind of hard wood should I use and if they are available in 10mm thick. Can I use 10mm ply wood as alternative?

Thanks,
Haph

Tassi Oak lining board comes in at 12 mm But a good ply would be better

On the other hand this might be a good time to talk SHMBO into letting you buy a thicknesser then you could get the wood exactily same thickness as gyprock

Never let a chance go by
Advice from an old Newcastle Boy

The trouble with life is there's no background music.
26th May 2005, 12:20 AM
Studley 2436

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ashore

Tassi Oak lining board comes in at 12 mm But a good ply would be better

On the other hand this might be a good time to talk SHMBO into letting you buy a thicknesser then you could get the wood exactily same thickness as gyprock

Never let a chance go by
Advice from an old Newcastle Boy

I like this one a lot any excuse you can use to get money out of SWMBO is a good excuse

Stevo :D :D
26th May 2005, 03:54 AM
Trent The Thief

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ashore

On the other hand this might be a good time to talk SHMBO into letting you buy a thicknesser then you could get the wood exactily same thickness as gyprock

Nice one.....
26th May 2005, 10:48 AM
haph

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ashore

On the other hand this might be a good time to talk SHMBO into letting you buy a thicknesser then you could get the wood exactily same thickness as gyprock

Never let a chance go by
Advice from an old Newcastle Boy

These are my excuses that I used since I started renovating the garage: Makita cordless driver, Paslode cordless framer, Bostitch finisher, Super Cheap nailer/stapler kit, GMC compressor, GMC SCMS, GMC power planer, Bosch rotary hammer, Makita circular saw, Makita jig saw, plus heaps of other small tools. A thicknesser doesn't sound too bad http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ons/icon12.gif, but I have to finish my garage to a lockup stage first, especially after reading those threads about breaking in....