Wax over Danish Oil?

Hi all,
I have recently completed some hallway tables that I hope to try and sell soon. They are made from recycled NZ rimu. I sanded them up to 220 grit before applying 3 coats of Cabots Danish Oil. The third and final coat which I applied this afternoon with steel wool has left quite a satisfactory nice even finish. However, I am considering using Briwax polish on the tops for a couple reasons, but thought I would ask here for advice first (not having ever used wax before).

One reason is the filler I used on nail holes just absorbed the oil and it looks like nothing is covering them. Would the wax cover the wood and filler indiscriminately to give a more cohesive "finished" look?

Also, although the top is very smooth to touch, when looking at it in direct light little sanding marks and natural splits in the grain show up still. I know that is part of the beauty of Danish Oil over the likes of plastic coatings but I should actually like to get a more "professionally" even and flatter finish, if using the wax would make this possible?

Finally, would you agree that it is only worth putting wax on the table top itself and its edges for the effect I am after as the effort doing the legs etc. would be by and large wasted especially since as I said the oil is already quite even and very smooth. I can imagine it would take me quite a lot of effort to avoid getting wax stuck in the grooved profile of the trim too. Or, would it look noticeably odd if only the top was waxed and the rest was left oiled?

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Hi Johnz

Firstly, I probably would have sanded to 400-600 minimum and used a Random Orbital Sander to do it. This would have given you a very smooth finish with no sanding marks left on the timber. I probably would have used another oil such as Tung Oil as I don't believe that most of the Danish Oils available actually highlight the grain in timber. The wax will probably help some.

Using wax over the nail holes should work but they will still be noticeable.

I agree that you need only wax the top (and the bottom shelf) for the effect you want.

I would strongly suggest that you seek out UBeaut's Traditional Wax for the finish rather than the wax you are looking at using. Trad wax will give you a warm lustre and is very easy to apply and wipe off. The result can be further enhanced by using their EEE cream before the wax. This acts as a final cutting agent and will improve the appearance of the work prior to waxing.

Regards,

Rob

Wax won't cover up poor finishing.

You can still go back and sand the Danish oil surface to remove all sanding marks and then refinish.

If you are building to sell, you have to do the job properly. Sand, and then sand again to 400-600 as mentioned above, then apply a thin finish, oil or shellac, check for defects, and sand some more.

Wax is a final dressing over oil and not a thick filler

Thanks for the replies. Yes, I accept that I had better sand back the tops to a higher final grit. I am a little concerned that the table that I have stained with Rustins Wood Dye will become unevenly coloured with sanding back though?

What # grit should I start attacking the coats of oil with first then?

Hi John,

Start at 220, then take it back through 180, 150 and 120g, then wipe down with Mineral Turps and see how it looks. Decide whether you need to re-dye the wood or just add oil. Quick question, did you sand between coats of the dye, or just go ahead with the Danish Oil? Also. did you sand between coats of the Oil?
If the timber looks uniform in colour, begin sanding back up through 150,180,220,240 and 400 and possibly 600. I would go to 600 personally.
Make sure that you have no sanding marks left from one grit before moving to the next. When you reach 600, wipe down with turps and check for sanding marks. If you don't have access to a ROS, then I would hand sand. An Orbital sander won't give you the finish you want. You should really do this to the whole piece, but at minimum you should do all flat surfaces.
I don't understand why you dyed Rimu, but that's just me.

Regards,

Rob

Thanks Rob,
I just got those higher grit papers so will get onto that after lunch.
I didn't sand after the dye (as it said on the bottle it wouldn't raise the grain) but I did sand between coats of oil with steel wool and finally applied last coat with steel wool before wiping off excess.
So far I have oiled three tables. Of those, one I will just go straight on to waxing the top as it is the most rustic looking one of the lot (lots of nail holes, and timber defects - shown in photo above) so the 240 grit sanding marks are more appropriate for the style. Of the two others I already oiled, one is stained and one is not. I will sand back the unstained one first once oil is dry enough.
I am curious why you suggest going back down through the grits rather than just starting with 120? It seems unnecessary?
One of the reasons I stained the rimu (mostly salvaged from framing of earthquake damaged houses in Christchurch) on some tables is that there were quite a number of nail holes (from sarking and framing nails) that I filled. As many of these holes had dark coloured rust stains around them I felt it best to use a dark grey coloured filler that matched those stains. My use of wood dye/staining helps make these blemishes slightly less noticeable/blend in, in my opinion compared to just applying a clear finish.
Another reason is that I think the staining gives a more antique style appearance. I have made five of these tables and just wanted a bit of variety in finish colours too, though I have left the two that used the best blemish-free timber unstained.

Hi John,
You can go straight to 120 g if you want, but you may miss a higher grit where you are able to stop. The colour of the wood and the feel of the surface should alert you to this. Once you cannot see uneven sanding marks, you can stop. This is my method, but you can as you say go straight to the lowest and work back up. I know you will definitely ass a difference in the finish once you sand up to 600.

Regards,

Rob

Thanks again, I get what you mean by working down the grits now - very sensible!

As far as using ROS for any finishing work, I have always felt that the little squiggle marks they leave are more undesirable than straight marks left by the finish I got above. However, should it be possible to get a squiggle free finish with an ROS if you work up to a high enough grit such as 400?
In my previous experience as a joiner we didn't do highly/finely finished work so I have never thought it necessary to use these higher grits (except when I have made smaller objects like boxes etc. that are hand held and so subject to more scrutiny), but I am now finding myself more critical of the finish I am getting, hence my original post.
Previously most of my finishes have been with Mirotone sanding sealer and lacquer and I have been very pleased with the results but I think it must be a fair bit more forgiving than Danish oil as I had only sanded to about 220 then too.
It didn't help that the Cabots Danish Oil instructions recommended 240grit finish and didn't even mention the requirement to wipe off excess oil before tackiness occurs:rolleyes:
Looking forward to the results... lots of sanding to do tonight!

Hi John,
Yes plastic is always easier to use on wood, it does act like a filler. Oil requires much better sanding prep, but the result you get is much, much better
Don't confuse an Orbital sander with a Random Orbital sander. An orbital will give you little curly swirlies after sanding, but the fact that the ROS is working across front/back and left/right at the same time means you don't get swirlies like those from an Orbital. You'll see the difference all the way up through the grits. By the time you reach 400 or better, 600, you wont see any, they'll be far to fine for you to see. And they won't show through the Oil either.
Now you are wanting to get a perfect finish, your work in preparation will repay you in gold.

Here's a couple of Oil finished tables that I have made.

Regards,

Rob