Oiled Jarrah

Hello Everyone,

Not my usual haunt but I'm not lost. I'm seeking advice regarding an appropriate finish I could apply to a side board I made as student thirty years ago. The cabinet was contructed from solid Jarrah and the finish applied at the time was a mixture of linseed oil and spirit of turpentine. I cannot remember whether the linseed was boiled or raw. The timber was "sanded" with wet and dry carborundum paper while saturated with the oil / turps mix. It was finished off with 1200 grade paper. Smelled wonderful and it made the timber shine.

Over the years I applied a local product called Catt Wax to the Jarrah. ( Charles Catt and his son Roy were names synonymous with the manufacture of Jarrah furniture over here during the 60's, 70's and 80's). The wax would have contained bee's wax.

The finish is not durable. It is prone to marking if inadvertently touched with wet hands or wet objects. I only ever made two cabinets. The first one has the wet hand print of one of my daughters tattooed on it. The side board has surprisingly remained unscathed.

Can anyone suggest a product or a recipe for a finish that might rejuventate the timber?

Bob Thomas

A friend made me a Jarrah coffee table that gets a hard life - cup rings, cigarette burns (bloody ballet dancers smoke like chimneys!). I asked for an oiled finish, which he did in tung oil. Looked great for a while but the years took a toll, and I was thinking of how to refinish it. Someone mentioned olive oil, but I thought he was joking. I tried it. Wow! No need for anything more, and done in a minute. It may not be quite the best standard, but ideal in my case.

Jordan

Bob,

you can try this Furniture and French Polish Reviver recipe:

1 part metho
2 parts turpentine (gum turpentine smells a lot better than mineral turps)
2 parts vinegar
4 parts raw linseed oil

Apply, leave for 1 min, wipe off and polish with soft cloth. I used it to rejuvenate the finish on an old gramophone. The three different 'solvents' seem to remove most of the crap that builds up over the years. Start somewhere inconspicuous and see how it goes.

If unsuccessful- orbital sander, spray gun and Mirotone laquer, followed by Feast Watson Fine Buffing Oil applied with 600 grit W&D or a scotchbrite pad.
This will give you an oiled look with the protection of a lacquer. Lots of work tho.

Chris

Bob
I would suggest contacting U-Beaut Polishes of this Forum.
Neil will put you on the right track.
He has assisted me on a few jobs, & has the knowledge to give you the right answer.
regards
Bruce

Jordan, Chris and Bruce.

Thank you for your replies.

I had read the comments regarding olive oil in one of the earlier threads here and reckon I'll leave the stuff in the kitchen.

I have often thought about how more durable a sprayed on finish might have been but the timber movement would have caused havoc. Over a year there would be nearly 3mm of movement in the door panels. The finish I applied all those years ago was managable for someone with my limited experience. The sideboard was a one semester project, every piece of wood was hand planed ( a lot of work :o ) and the thought of trying to achieve a worthwhile finish with a spray gun, something I had never used, was too daunting and too risky.

I had a look at the U Beaut site last night.

BT

My mate Tony also made our dining table which has breadboard ends, where up to 2mm movement can be seen. There's no apparent detriment to the polyurethane finish. The table is a passable hygrometer.
What's the bad news about olive oil?

Jordan

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nadroj

My mate Tony also made our dining table which has breadboard ends, where up to 2mm movement can be seen. There's no apparent detriment to the polyurethane finish. The table is a passable hygrometer.
What's the bad news about olive oil?

Jordan

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Some comments about its possible shortcomings here Jordan -

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f9/oli...finish-155962/

BT

ps. I have a few windows at home that also double up as hygrometers.:no:

That has been well looked after Bob! I am surprised you haven't had a few more answers but finishing is a funny topic, a blend of woodwork, art and alchemy. :)

There are some products such as Orange Oil that may help but I am not experienced enough to say it will work for you.

Anyone else able to offer suggestions?

Reapply the original finish again. This should be done on a regular basis with that sort of oil finish.You may need to give it a good wash down with mineral turpentine to get rid of the wax. Lots of turps and heaps of clean soft rag to wipe it all off and rid you of the wax. (don't use pure turpentine as it isn't all that good for you)

The finish you originally applied is one that's best done like this: One coat a day for a week, one per week for a month, once a month for a year, then whenever needed the life of the piece.

Most waxes will mark up reasonably easy so aren't the best for longevity unless applied regularly as upkeep and precautions are made to void damage from water and heat etc

Hope this is of some help.

Cheers - Neil :U

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Groggy

That has been well looked after Bob! I am surprised you haven't had a few more answers but finishing is a funny topic, a blend of woodwork, art and alchemy. :)

There are some products such as Orange Oil that may help but I am not experienced enough to say it will work for you.

Anyone else able to offer suggestions?

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Hi Greg,

It is in good nick because it spent the first twenty years of its life at my mother's place, away from children's fingers. My Mum paid for the Jarrah when I was an impoverished student so I gave her the sideboard. I used to love opening the doors and smelling the linseed and turpentine when I would drop in for a visit. Still smells good.

Thanks for your suggestion and your help.:2tsup:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ubeaut

Reapply the original finish again. This should be done on a regular basis with that sort of oil finish.You may need to give it a good wash down with mineral turpentine to get rid of the wax. Lots of turps and heaps of clean soft rag to wipe it all off and rid you of the wax. (don't use pure turpentine as it isn't all that good for you)

The finish you originally applied is one that's best done like this: One coat a day for a week, one per week for a month, once a month for a year, then whenever needed the life of the piece.

Most waxes will mark up reasonably easy so aren't the best for longevity unless applied regularly as upkeep and precautions are made to void damage from water and heat etc

Hope this is of some help.

Cheers - Neil :U

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Thank you very much Neil. That is exactly the advice I was seeking.

I was encouraged to go the linseed and turpentine route by a fellow student. A bloke who knew what he was doing and had the ability to pass on his knowledge and skill. I was a keen recipient. Our lecturer was a silversmith, not a wood worker and we were basically on our own. All the jarrah we used was finished by hand with the linseed and turpentine mix. Numerous applications as you indicate. By the time we progressed to 1200 wet and dry and that was worn out, the wood shined. It looked fantastic.

You could smell the stuff throughout the entire 3D Design workshop at WAIT (Curtin Uni). Now I find out it's not to good for me. I reckon it's a bit late. Ha Ha :U How do painters (artists) get on when they use it with their oils?


Bob.