Spray Finish for Pine Entertainment Unit

Hi,
I have just finished my first major project, an Entertainment unit that spans the complete width of our lounge room.

It was constructed from pine offcuts that I scrounged from building sites.

I want a Baltic Pine type finish that maybe I could spray on.
I previously build my wife a kitchen centre that I finished in a Poly Cabots product with a Baltic stain in it, applied by brush. The problem was, it was not dark enough and the drying time was slow so dust settled a lot.

I have been told then most stains, finished in profession shops are sprayed on Laquer that have a very short drying time so dust settleing is not so much of a problem.

Can anyone suggest a suitable product, also any information on spraying laquers, etc would be appreciated.

Gazza,

About Staining, I tried the combined poly and stain and wouldn't use it again. If you don't/can't spray, then I reckon the feast watson baltic stain would be the way to go. You can just keep adding coats until you are happy with the colour. (they also suggest putting the fungishield on under it to give an even colour).
You might also try the Minwax wipe on poly (at bunnings) which gives a pretty good finish and there are no brush marks..


Paul

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Originally Posted by PaulS

Gazza,
If you don't/can't spray, then I reckon the feast watson baltic stain would be the way to go. Paul

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Actually I would like to give spraying a go but don't know what to use or where to buy it. I have heard that sprayed on laquers dry very quickly, is this true ?

Just use the cabots normal poly(carbothane) and use the country baltic water based stain(also cabots). You wont get a good shine out of quick drying lacquers, unless its buffed after curring fully.
All polys take hours to touch dry, you need to paint in a clean area that has no dust, make up a temporary booth out of plastic drop sheets and wear a good resipator while in it... and on flat top surfaces on the last coat aboslutely flood it on for a very deep shine without brush marks, just make sure its level first...
To spray a poly finish you need too treat it like an enamel automotive paint.

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Originally Posted by Harry72

Just use the cabots normal poly(carbothane) and use the country baltic water based stain(also cabots). You wont get a good shine out of quick drying lacquers, unless its buffed after curring fully.

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EH????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

Well every time I've used lac its never come out with the shine that poly is capable off straight off the gun...

I use Wattyl Isogard 95 and you could use it for a mirror. 2 coats.

Not my preference but women like it and thems the ones paying. :) .

I prefer 30 myself.

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Originally Posted by

I use Wattyl Isogard 95 and you could use it for a mirror. 2 coats.

Not my preference but women like it and thems the ones paying. :) .

I prefer 30 myself.

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Actually I am not after a mirror shine, I prefer a satin type sheen, which I have been told by a local cabinet maker that is best acheived by spraying laquer.

, you sound like you are right into spraying. The Wattyl 95 and 30 you mention above, are they laquers ???
Are they suitable for spraying onto Pine ?
Do you need any special surface preparation ?
Other than a spray gun of course do you need any special equipment ?
Is it something that a complete novice could use and still achieve a reasonable finish ?
I have checked at Bunnings and they don't carry the Wattyl 95 or 30, where can it be purchased from ?

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Originally Posted by Harry72

Just use the cabots normal poly(carbothane) and use the country baltic water based stain(also cabots). You wont get a good shine out of quick drying lacquers, unless its buffed after curring fully.
All polys take hours to touch dry, you need to paint in a clean area that has no dust, make up a temporary booth out of plastic drop sheets and wear a good resipator while in it... and on flat top surfaces on the last coat aboslutely flood it on for a very deep shine without brush marks, just make sure its level first...
To spray a poly finish you need too treat it like an enamel automotive paint.

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A good furniture polisher can lay lacquer on so it doesnt need cut and polish. Furniture lacquer is a little more forgiving than Auto lacquer though its near enough the same thing. I'm not in the class of a pro polisher but my lacquer jobs don't need buffing.

, you sound like you are right into spraying. If it doesn't come out of a gun it goes out of our place unfinished. :D

The Wattyl 95 and 30 you mention above, are they laquers ???Yep, nitro cellulose lacquers.

Are they suitable for spraying onto Pine ? Yep.

Other than a spray gun of course do you need any special equipment ?A very very good compressor if you are doing large surfaces. Water traps help too.

Is it something that a complete novice could use and still achieve a reasonable finish ? With practise.

I have checked at Bunnings and they don't carry the Wattyl 95 or 30, where can it be purchased from ? All good paint stores carry it but it is only available in 20 Litre drums.

You might like to look here,

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...read.php?t=485

And here:

http://www.cjohnhebert.com/spraying.htm

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Originally Posted by echnidna

A good furniture polisher can lay lacquer on so it doesnt need cut and polish. Furniture lacquer is a little more forgiving than Auto lacquer though its near enough the same thing. I'm not in the class of a pro polisher but my lacquer jobs don't need buffing.

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Well I've never seen a lac with "a real deep shine" that hasnt been polished/buffed and had extreme amounts of coats.
When I say shine I mean like freshly buffed clear over base black 2pac, or even a baked enamel.

, I dont think you need that good'a compressor, long as it has a reasonable sized tank(to stop plusing)and no less that 10cfm. Many people run into trouble because they run their guns with to much pressure... thats when the comp wont keep up and you waste heaps of paint with overspray. With polys Im only running around 15psi.
Running air tools is when you need a big 20cfm bastard.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Harry72

Well I've never seen a lac with "a real deep shine" that hasnt been polished/buffed and had extreme amounts of coats.
When I say shine I mean like freshly buffed clear over base black 2pac, or even a baked enamel......

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Hey Harry, when you say "lac" are you talking about nitro cellulose lacquers like the stuff used on wood or something you've used/seen to paint cars?

I did a custom art course using auto paints about 25 years ago & back then EVERYTHING was buffed including the 'clear.'

Cliff, both!
Im getting close to good quality car paint just with everyday carbothane, I wouldnt waste time with lac unless a low sheen is needed.
You dont buff enamel it kills the surface, unless its old and faded and on its last legs.
Anyway were gettin of course, Gazza only wants a low sheen so lac is the answer, cant say I've used low sheen poly... anyone?

Here in Tassie i use a product made by sherwood,i think it is made in Victoria,it spays very well and drying time is very short,i always use 30% gloss and to get a realy glossy finish i use the french polishing method with a rubber made from a lint free cloth with cotton wool inside it,dip it in striaght thinners and rub with long strokes but only do it when touch dry then you can drag the polish to fill small grain then finish with another spray coat.........
Hope this helps..........

Reuards Tasman

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, I dont think you need that good'a compressor, long as it has a reasonable sized tank(to stop plusing)and no less that 10cfm. Many people run into trouble because they run their guns with to much pressure... thats when the comp wont keep up and you waste heaps of paint with overspray. With polys Im only running around 15psi.
Running air tools is when you need a big 20cfm bastard.

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I wa referring to the el cheapo type that have to run all the time even at 15PSI. :D