Oak dining table - the right finish?

I've just started work on nice new dining table made from american oak, and I need to start thinking about how I will achieve the finish I'm after.

The end result that I want is a clean, natural-looking, durable satin finish that is easy to repair when it inevitably gets damaged (I have 2 toddlers who will see to that). I would like the grain to be filled too. Brush or sprayed finishes are out for repairability and appearance reasons.

First question is, what to use to fill the grain? Hardwoods don't tend to be used much in NZ, so there isn't a huge range of grain fillers on the market (I haven't tried bunnings yet, but Mitre 10 has zilch). I think I'll be able to get Timbermate from somewhere, but another option I read about somewhere is using a thin mixture of plaster of paris followed by a coat of linseed oil once it's dry. Has anyone tried that?

Second question is the finish itself. I am currently leaning towards a danish oil-type finish such as a 1/3 poly, 1/3 tung, 1/3 turps blend. Another interesting option has presented itself in the form of a local product called "Haarlem oil," which is a blend of Tung, vegetable turpentine and dryers. How would something like the Haarlem Oil compare with a poly/tung blend?

Any suggestions, comments welcome!

Just one point Stu about fillers. I think the use of plaster of paris and linseed can cause trouble in the long-run. While it is transparent with the application of linseed oil, as the oil oxidises over the years I've read that the plaster of paris becomes visible again. Don't know what the time frame for that is.
Sorry if it's a negative reply.
Cheers,
Jim

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Originally Posted by jimbur

Sorry if it's a negative reply.

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No, that's exactly the sort of thing I need to know!

Watered down Timbermate makes quite a good filler. You said you didnt want to to use a spray finish, but what about a lacquer finish and "pull" the coats to seal the grain.Spray lacquer can be recoated.The other option would be a tung oil floor finish with an over polish ie Peerless and Gemini.

Anyone else have any ideas?

I'm also wondering whether it would be possible/worthwhile to add a bit of poly to the Haarlem oil to toughen the finish up if need be.

Hi Stu, I would suggest going for a partial grain filled look. Apply a generous coat of the finish i.e Oil or oil varnish mix then allow to dry, then apply another coat and sand it in with about 600 grit wet and dry making a slurry of sawdust and dry finish mixed with the new coat, working it into the pores. After about half an hour ( before it gets to tacky ) wipe the excess off. When dry you can add more coats if you wish. Its just another idea.

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Originally Posted by J.B.W

Hi Stu, I would suggest going for a partial grain filled look. Apply a generous coat of the finish i.e Oil or oil varnish mix then allow to dry, then apply another coat and sand it in with about 600 grit wet and dry making a slurry of sawdust and dry finish mixed with the new coat, working it into the pores. After about half an hour ( before it gets to tacky ) wipe the excess off. When dry you can add more coats if you wish. Its just another idea.

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I was thinking about doing that - perhaps something similar to the procedure used for Organoil Hard Burnishing oils.

I reckon I'll give the Haarlem oil a go first, and if that doesn't give me enough durability, I'll look into a topcoat of some kind - possibly hard shellac.

Have recently done a couple of bowls - white oak and red oak. Both finished with Rustins DO, 3 coats. The red oak has distinct ring porosity which the finish hasn't filled and that's fine by me. Prefer the look. But another coat or two would prob fill the pores.

The kitchen cupboards are veneered in American oak and I'm not sure what the finish is. Some kind of spray-on varnish at a guess. The maker didn't trowel the stuff on so the open grain remains visible (and the finish has been durable). Again, I prefer that look to the full-gloss plakky you see sometimes.

The Organoil hard burnishing oil process is meant to produce a grain filling slurry so that should aid in filling the pores. This was my standard finish on turnings when I started but both my teacher and I gave it away as several weeks after doing it the grain started to rise. Other users didn't have the same outcome.

Other than than, in general I like oil finishes cos they can be repaired by the average joe. Not sure that that is true of Hard Shellac but I am impressed by the durability of that finish.

As for fillers, IIRC our host Neil has spoken favorably of Intergrain and at a guess he will have had plenty of experience with Timbermate before that.

Hi Stu,
Not sure what part of your lovely country you live in but in Dunedin (sorry not sure of the spelling) there is a furniture company using natural oils. to fill you can mix some timbermate with water and trowel on if need be, let dry and sand as normal. If you cant find the colour that you want, the putty can be mixed together. Remember if you do oil, the putty will darken slightly. don't sand too finley to allow the oil to penetrate. you can always sand inbetween coats with finer paper to achieve the finer finish. with oils you can rejuveante them as need be.....plus most are food safe and the natural finishes have full ingredient listings.

The oil+slurry approach didn't produce the effect I was after: the slurry turned out too dark and made the grain look a bit "busy." Second test piece was the hardwood timbermate with haarlem oil, and that seems to be pretty much perfect. Just the right level of grain filling and a nice subtle effect. Wet sanding to 1200 grit produces a nice satin finish, so that should do the job nicely.