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This is another back to basics question. I've ready many times about using steel wool in finishing. I have bought some, and experimented a little, but I would still like to understand the theory. My question is - what is the difference between using steel wool and sandpaper when finishing - say for doing the final sanding on bare wood, and for doing sanding between coats of wipe-on poly. Are the two functionally equivalent, or do they have a slightly different purpose ?
cheers
Arron
YOuy need the polishers Handbook!:U By Ubeaut of course!
I think the gist of it goes that sand paper cuts the wood where steel wool will burnish it. Which means that it stops the finish penetrating the wood. Which is not what you want! So Sand paper on raw wood, and sand paper OR steel wool on the finish like varnish or shellac to buff it to something approaching heaven to touch! :D
Nylon scours are better - steel wool can leave little bits of steel in the wood to rust at a later date.
Interesting idea. I hadnt heard that before. Are you meaning those scouring pads that people use for cleaning pots and pans ? If so, what brand do you use.Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Splinter
I have just tried Chux Non-Scratch scouring pads and Woolies home brand heavy duty scouring pads. I found they scratched quite a bit more then 0000 steel wool. I'm not sure whether thats a good or bad thing at the moment.
cheers
Arron
Scouring pads are colour coded for grade. I think the green ones are fairly coarse, white ones are the most gentle and are the ones recommended to use in the Organ Oil instructions I followed recently.
The different grade pads can be found at cleaning supply outlets rather than Supermarkets. Only problem I found was they wanted to sell in large quantities.
For example check this link for an example of 7 different grades.
Hi Arron,
Master Splinter is right on the money with his response. I haven't used steel wool for many years. I sand bare wood with paper to 323 sometimes and on hard woods to 400 and very occasionally to 600.
For de-nibbing the first polish coat and for profiles in bare timber i use abrasive cloth.
That comes in 320 400 and 600 grit equivalent ( different colours) and it only leaves a dust residue behind which is easily blown and solvent washed off and not 50 Million steel splinters of which there are always a few thousand left to bug...er up your finish. You will probably need to go to a specialist paint shop to get the abrasive cloth or try one of the sponsors of this site for some real service:roll:.
Old Pete
The pads I was using were colored green and blue so I guess if they were following the colour convention then I was at the coarse end of the spectrum. I will need to source some of the white ones.
Btw, thanks to all those who have responded. - this thread has provided me with great information.
Cheers
Arron