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G'day,
A person is about to embark on woodturning with his own lathe. And as a gift I am going to give him a tub of EEE. Previously he looked at the label and said it is nothing more than cut 'n polish aka car polish. And speaking to another person he told him that he uses car polish and doesn't see the merit of anything else.
So, I want to get down to facts, so I can tell this bloke why EEE is better and the merits of it.
It is a polish, it isn't a finish.
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Yeah, but I'm after a good argument.
EEE - Ultra Shine has the unique ability of breaking down the grit size as you use it however instead of becoming blunt like most other abrasives it continues to cut which takes your finish to a higher and higher shine as you continue to work. For woodturners it also has the ability of removing sanding marks from most timbers and can greatly reduce your sanding time whilst giving you a far better finished surface than you have ever had before. A blemish free surface pre-polished and ready to apply your finish to.
Onya Cliff, that's good argument.
Don't confuse the issue, its about cutting compounds, not polishing.
Car cutting compounds also contain friable abrasive, some the same natural as EEE, others have synthetic versions.
Most cutting compounds wear to a fine dust, leaving you free to continue spraying if you want or applying the final polish/wax .
Most times EEE is great for the job, but it is hard to beat the ability to choose a coarse, medium and then fine cutting compound to really build a shine you can swim in.
It's not me confusing the issue, I'm trying to address the issue someone else has, and once that opinion is formed it becomes absolute and you have to conform to it. :doh:Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruzi
EEE was designed initially to work with turned timber products and is made to be compatible with the Shellawax range of products as a final abrasive prior to polishing with Shellawax, Shellawax Glow, Shellawax Cream, most shellacs and most good wax polish designed for use on timber.
It can also be used as a final cut and polish over many surface finishes.
It is not designed to work as a car polish, just as most car polishes aren't designed to be used on timber, but over a finished surface either as a cut and polish or for upkeep.
EEE DOES NOT contain silicon, where as many car polishes do. You don't want silicone around timber.
None of the U-Beaut range of finishes contain silicon, all are designed specifically for use with wood, all are food safe. :2tsup:
Hope this is of some help Waldo
Cheers - Neil :U
That is, thanks Neil. :2tsup:
Thanks Neil, that explanation contained something I had never imagined. I had automatically thought that once I had used EEE I would not be able to use shellac as a finish. I obviously have not read your book on finishing carefully. I have been using shellac followed by EEE now I realise that I can use shellac after EEE.
Silicones are a problem in polishes but they are not in cutting compounds, nor should you use cut and polish products as a replacement for cutting compounds. Cutting compounds are designed for use within paint shops were no silicone is allowed.
(This is why I clarified and stated cutting compounds, not polish)
The product the woodturner referred to in the OP is a buff/n/wax type product which is not highly regarded as it does neither well.
All products are designed to be used on finishes, not bare surfaces (ie wood or metal), where that finish is, is immaterial.
To me neither is better than the other, its they each have their own uses.
Should clarify my statement about use under shellac It was meant for use on the lathe. However.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Fencepost2
Shellac has the ability to stick (like sheeit to a blanket) to almost any surface. Personally, for flat work I wouldn't use EEE under any surface coating other than another wax or the shellawaxes, but it will work with shellac if it is fully buffed off the surface. ie no waxy residue is left behind. If you want a brilliant base to build your polish on it is much better to sand to 800grit use some of our sanding sealer then 1200grit instead of EEE.
The wax content in EEE is pretty tenacious and hangs onto the timber like crazy. It will literally repel any surface coating from the timber with the exception of shellac.
The wax portion of EEE is there to hold the abrasive in suspension not to add shine (although to a certain extent it does) without the wax content the abrasive would just float off into the air, our lungs, hair, clothing, pretty much everywhere but where we want it to be - on the surface of the work.
Cruzi is dead right with what he says. With cuting compounds there is no real difference. All are pretty much "designed to be used on finishes, not bare surfaces (ie wood or metal), where that finish is, is immaterial."
However EEE WAS designed to be used on timber where the finish isn't immaterial, but often paramount, especially for waxed or friction finishes, when the final surface is supposed to resemble as closely as possible natural timber with an amazing feel and look. Different kettle of fish if you intend to have layers of surface finish sprayed, brushed, etc on the surface. Then when the preparation isn't necessarily all that important and when the "designed to be used on finishes, not bare surfaces" stuff comes into play.
Cheers :U
To me this is a fine example of what these forums are all about and what this site does so well. Learning from a discussion from those with expertise and / or experience and questions from other interested parties rather than just reading a how to from an individual. It is what has made this such a popular forum, cheers, seriola :2tsup::2tsup:
:whs:
Thank you very much. I read the thread with interest.