Best Finish for Exotic Walking Canes

I'm new to this forum so I hope I don't commit a faux pas. If I should I apologize in advance and ask your patience.
I make high end hand made exotic walking canes. Ebonies, bloodwood, rosawoods, bocote and cocobolo are some of the woods I use. Each cane is inlaid with either crushed coral, tourquoise, or other such dramatic material...all in an Inlace matrix. Naturally these woods are all very dense with tight grain structures. Although I prefer an simple and elegant hand rubbed oil & waxed finish, I need to provide an environmental seal on the cane to withstand various US climates. The handles likewise take considerable abuse in terms of weather and hand moisture and pH.
I've been using a Teak oil or Bush oil (tradename) finish with a polyethalene topcoat. I prep all components progressively to a 12000 grit finish, and lightly resand each coating down using an 800 grit or finer abrasive.The polyethalene coat is buffed with a tripoli wax stick. I then finish them all off with a final two coats of Renesance wax.
I recently purchased EEE Ultrashine to use in my finishing. Can anyone suggest a better, simpler process, than will create the high luster my clients feel is necessary to justify a high end price, as well as providing a long wearing weather resistant finish?
There, now that's a simple question, isn't it? :roll:
Vlad M

Welcome to our forum Vlad M!

Amazing walking stick mate. :2tsup:

I'm not the one with an answer to your question though.

But you will be asked for a link so we can see more of your creations!

Thanks for the welcome Tankstand, as well as your appreciation of the cane. My website isn't up and running, yet...but I have created an album here of some of my work. Since this is really the first time I've had actual woodworkers view my canes I'd be very interested in hearing their opinions.
For what it's worth, aside from playing with wood in shop as a youth, I never worked with wood before last March when I realized I was going to need to use a cane. These walking canes were all made in the past year. I think I can do better ;-)

Great work Vlad, thanks for the album.

Love the look of the Kingwood handle!

How do you create your double helix?

That looks like top work, I suggest you have a look at "Rustins Plastic Coating", I am nt aware if you have in the USA, it is impervious to preety much any thing, you can have a matt finish all the way up to a glass like polish. Australia

Hi Vlad M,
How about some of Neil's Hard Shellac (U Beaut ).
Surly that should do the job.
Regards,
issatree.
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I doubt you need to be told, but most of the woods you mention are pretty fine all by themselves.
But, you asked, the first thing that comes to my mind would be a high end car wax that contains a high percentage of caranuba. For some items (pens, etc.) I use 'Top Of The Line - Trade Secret' wax. Expensive but works very well and goes a long way.
I would like to see pictures of your canes.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions...and especially for your comments about my canes. As I said, I've only been at this for the past year, so the opinions of far more experienced woodcrafters is something I value. I really did start this simply to make myself one cane to use. It kinda grew out'a-hand from that.

Rifleman - I placed pics of some of my canes up as an album here. The problem with carnuba wax is that it needs to be maintained by a customer...something they're not inclined to do. I use an oil/wax finish for the few that've gone to collectors though. IMO, a far superior touch and feel to those.
Tankstand - That double helix is a real PITA to create. I use a narrow painter's masking tape to mask off (by eye) the spiral. I use a marker to define both edges of the tape. After removing the tape, I then use a fine fret saw to cut along the marked lines and start creating the inlay grooves with small rasps and wood files. It takes about a week of work to smoothly define each channel about 1/4" deep with a smooth transition the whole length. I know I could do it faster with perhaps a Dremel router, but then I couldn't rightfully say the canes are all handmade. Besides, there's a greater sense of accomplishment (yeah, and pride too) when it's all done and finished and you look at it and can say "I really did make that". You all know it's more satisfying that way.
China - thanks, I'll track it down and check it out. I'm looking for a durable finish that would fit right in with the 'handmade' intent. The polyurethane I've used leaves them looking too much like machine made mass produced pharmacy canes. ACK!
Isatree - I'm looking to give that a try. Perhaps Neil will suggest something that'll work as well. I'm looking for the holy grail of finishing...less work but higher quality. One can only hope.
Thank you all. Vlad

Nice sticks Vlad. Dunno about the pun though; they grew 'out'a-hand'?
What about Tung oil for the finish?.. that's what I use on mine, 2 or 3 coats. Not a high finish but quick and durable. I'm just about finished a couple of sticks and will post pics of them in the woodcarving section later today, keep an eye out for them to see what the finish is like.

Nice canes.
I personally don't care for any sort of film finish on such stuff. That is just personal preference. If the wood needs some finish (and some of what you listed doesn't), I prefer oil, wax or an oil/wax mix. But as you said it does require some maintenance. Another finish some people use for knife handles is superglue. I imagine the needed level of finish is similar for cane handles. With practice it can be polished to a high shine and is supposedly durable.

ron

I have a different take on things. When a person buys an item to be used it is up to the owner to maintain it. Otherwise it will look 'used' and that is OK.
Really, though, some of the woods you mention require no maintenance other than a rag wipe now and then.
I do not know how to search out an album. How do I find yours?

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Originally Posted by Rifleman1776

I have a different take on things. When a person buys an item to be used it is up to the owner to maintain it. Otherwise it will look 'used' and that is OK.
Really, though, some of the woods you mention require no maintenance other than a rag wipe now and then.
I do not know how to search out an album. How do I find yours?

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I'm not entirely sure myself being new here. I tried clicking on my name at the top of this thread and a menu selection appeared. Click on view public profile and my album shows up on the right side of the page. I bet there must be a easier more direct way to locate it, perhaps someone else here can tell you (us) how to do it.

I agree with what you say about the buyer's responsibility, but most wouldn't know the difference between carnuba and ear wax. And I sure wouldn't want to hear that they used Pledge on one!

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The replies that said some of these woods, especially the oily ones, don't actually need a further finish are correct, but a buyer in upstate New York or Montana expects one (especially since the tips I use convert to an ice tip for stability). The cane I sent out to Nevada had a poly coat because they asked for it to withstand a dry dusty windblown environ. The other point is that some woods like Padauk benefit from a UV protection to retard the color from fading. I use a Teak oil on those because it contains a UV retardant.

I guess if I try to please everyone I'll end up not having the time to satisfy anyone.
Vlad

When it comes to pleasing customers, what I would do is provide a few options. On woods that don't need anything, explain that it doesn't need anything but for a bit extra you can put a finish on it. On stock you normally carry have some in each finish you care to use and have a card explaining proper maintenance. On custom orders, give the customer a few choices, such as nothing (if the wood allows), oil or poly and adjust you price accordingly and again have a card for maintenance.
There really is no reason to give all possible finishes. There are so many finishes I don't know that it is possible to learn to apply all finishes and do a good job unless you are a professional finisher. So concentrate on a few finishes you can do well.

ron