painting problems

had a problem with paint not adhering to walls/cielings have tried taubmans 3in1 , zinserrs 123 , whatever is on these boards resist`s most paint.
then a mate at work suggested a radical plan to remove this problem and that was to run all the boards (t&g) through a thicknesser has anyone else out there had this sort of problem or am i alone . and before any one shakes there head and mutters bloody idiot , i have thought of the cost component of purchasing a thicknesser to recladding these walls and it would appear that a thicknesser win`s hope to hear from some-one soon thank-you

Have you tried ESP? It was recommended to me yesterday when the ceiling guy was giving me a quote. I just mentioned to him that I have to paint the aluminium framing of a suspended ceiling and he mentioned ESP.
Below is cut and paste from a home reno's website.



Say goodbye to tedious, messy and costly sanding of glossy, slick surfaces.
With ESP Easy Surface Prep sanding is a chore of the past. Just wipe it on and wipe it off. Paint 2 hours later. ESP does not contain abrasives which may damage the surface and is not a deglosser. ESP cleans the surface and leaves an invisible super tough bonding film to which oil and water based paint adheres firmly.

Find out how to save that sandpaper and protect your knuckles.

http://www.floodaustralia.net/

yes gemini i have tried esp and got sfa ,thanks anyway .

Go to an automotive spray painter and ask him/her what they use to prepare the surface of cars with polish on them.

It sounds to me like a case of silicon.

I hate to start this debate again. :eek:

Dearest Buggerme,

Don't remove the t&g or it'll be buggeryourhumpy as well!!

The t&g constructed house is a tricky little device if you study it really. The sum of the structure far exceeds the sum of the individual parts.

The walls in theory don't provide any support for the roof, until you take them down by which time you will find that the door and window studs don't provide support either! They do provide all the bracing and a lot of the structural component in reality.

I can't imagine the amount of work involved in pulling out every board, thicknessing it, replacing the 15 or 20 percent that will split either the tongue or the groove, and then trying to re-assemble them.

Note that they do go through the floor in many cases as well...

On the other hand, if you do decide to give it a go send me a PM because I'd love to see how you overcome all the little challenges. (I'm deadly serious about the PM).

If you really really want to contemplate a lot of work and silliness, why not set up a router jig and do your own fake VJ's out of 10mm MDF and then clad the wall?

Cheers,

P

What about a heat gun and a scraper. Much easier and quicker than taking all the boards of and refixing them apart from the problems Bitingmidge has pointed out.

What about an insurance claim for your house burning down?? :D

Ian :)

I have an old queenslander with T&G and rather than muck about with all the cleaning and painting to get it looking cherry and the worry of dust and insulation falling through the inevitable gaps We (SWMBO) have decided to cover it all with gyprock. I am in the process of doing this to the entire house ( damm it's a BIG house! ) and we have decided to cover the bottom metre of wall with pine lining boards as we did the same with our previous house (was gyprock all the way down) that we had down south and it looked very nice if I do say so myself. The cost to date (I have nearly completed one room) would appear to be pretty good when compared to new boards. The room ( lounge) is 4.6 x 4.6 m and has cost about $500 in gyprock and will be around $300 in pine boards with skirting etc. As a bonus I have been able to justify a SCMS and a nail gun. I might have to get one of the Triton respirator setups as the dust when sanding is horrendous. All this being said it is a big job and pretty hard work as regards the finishing of the Gyprock but with perserverance and patience it is achievable. As Bitingmidge said the boards are all that really hold these type of houses together and I would not like to have to remove a large section of them as I think you could really cause some serious movement of the house frame (such as it is ). Anyhow just a thought that you may like to consider

thank-you all for your input it will be taken onboard and then she who spends the cash will make a decesion on what we should do .
it will probably be the wrong one no matter what i say but , you get that on big job`s . once again thank-you

I've used VJ tongue and groove out of old qlder's to fabricate a few things. Took to it with the stripper gun, scraper/s and sander. Came up like a treat but as I said they were from the demolition yard. Don't know that I'd like to do that in situ - probably start a fire - though then you wouldn't need to worry :D

Think I'd go with the gyprock idea or there are stacks of boards in the demolition yards that you could tart up and go over the top with :confused: You'd need to have severe masochistic tendacies to do that though :(

Good luck -tell us where you get. As a matter of interest paint stripper was absolutely useless - must have 10 or more coats of paint on them and their adhesion was excellent - Ah the good old days :confused:

Take a sample to a paint manufacturer and they will tell you whats what .... I mustve missed something at the start of this thread though, as I am uncertain what the issue with the existing timber is ...... will it just not take any onther paint? What is already on it? Paint? Laquer? etc....... prepsol or thinners is what panel beaters use, but unless it is some weird concoction (which it is I guess) most prep-products should do the trick ...... bloody odd! Keen to get further info though

I think youd be able to safely remove internal wall linings because if your place is anything like mine the softwood roof framing is supported on hardwood external walls which probably have adequate framing and bracing if lined externally with weatherboards - at least you could do a few walls at a time and definately do the ceiling separately. The hoop wall linings in my house were converted into termite in the 50's and the previous owner just covered them over with masonite and the place is still standing.
Cheers