Robust finish for conference table

I am making two large slabs of Red Siris into a conference table for my business.

I want to finish them in a way to assure:
1. the beautiful red colour is not compromised, ie. as natural as possible, for the long term
2. waterproof
3. hard wearing. It will have paper clips, etc dragged across it
4. preferably satin, or at least the wood must not look like it is encased in plastic.

I use Minwax Wipe-On Poly (satin) for furniture I want to be waterproof; it is fantastic (I have no interest here whatsoever). But polyurethanes are soft; I think I need a harder product, like a floor sealer.

Any suggestions please?

Regards,
Mark

Automotive 2 pack clear or Wattyl 7008 2 pack, is about the toughest.
You will need to dull down the finished surface, 0000 steelwool and some wax would do this nicely.

my choice is oil. Nothing at all will stop the wood from oxidising so its going to darken with age. I would use a hard burnishing oil which will give a gleam to satin finish rather than a glass like poly top. Maintainance is a bit of oil rubbed over it and polished up. Now depends on how porus the wood is, it may dry and need several coats but once its stable , once a year or so is plenty. Coffee cups, beetroot, wine and mild nail polish remover will not phaase it, no white rings etc.

polyurethane is by no means bullet proof, and in case of scratching will take more effort to repair, especially if you've waxed over it. 2pak isn't neccesarily your best option either. Your other class of Poly would be a moisture cure, eliminates the need for having to mix stuff, the end result is actually slightly softer than a 2pak but more abrasion resistant, due to the flex. Theres many smaller companies that manafacture moisture cures, have a chat to a floor sander :) see what they use. Oh and they come in satin also, usually 1/2 coats of gloss, and just the final in satin.

Rustins Plastic Coating I have used this on several conference tables, you choose how much of gloss finish you want, it can de a dull oil finish or a glass like polish

Many thanks to harry72, rrobor, Spectre and China.

I now have a pretty big range of options.

I added another when I talked with a fellow who made a long benchtop for me a few years ago out of Sydney Blue Gum; he uses Feast Watson Floorseal. He sprays it on very lightly, rubbing down with 800 grit between coats; the first coat must penetrate the wood well, and he says get another on within 24 hours.

He told me you can keep the gloss to a minimum by keeping the coats as thin as possible and 2 coats will do it, max 3 if really needed.

So, now I am going to do a fair bit of diverse testing....

Thanks and regards,
Mark